Yeah... I keep breaking cranks. Billet crank is on order and so that and a Turbo 400 will go back in it whenever the crank is ready.
ARD is good people. Top notch shop.
Yup. The stockers break w/o any power mods. try SEARCH and you'll see all the carnage. Baby the cars and you get lucky. Even Plum didn't dump the clutch on NOS on the street. But launch hard once and kiss those shafts buh-bye.
Actually, the main thing you need is half-shafts. A friend of mine skipped them and snapped the stock shafts first time out. They are weak on a stock car and wheel-hop will destroy them. spend the extra money and do it else you'll be whining here for a set of used ones or paying full...
When the reverse lockout is grounded, you can engage R. When it isn't (as in when the car is off), you can't. I've actually had a case of needing to manually wire the ground due to the exact opposite problem: NOT being able to engage reverse. I'd check the harness and clean it out...
They all say that. I did some research before I bought the RSI clutch... they have an exclusive agreement w/ the manufacturer. The support has been stellar and the clutch has handled my 1500rwhp+ beautifully.
I wouldn't be surprised if BBG ended up in a lawsuit over it... just sayin'...
So to clarify, what is the difference between your clutch and the RPS clutch assembly which is exclusively licensed to RSI? As one of the first users of the Gen II prototype (including helping RPS figure out how to make ti work with a gen2 flywheel), it would be helpful for me as well as the...
Yes, the T-stat housings are different. But that doesn't matter. What matters is that some coolant from the block gets back to the heater core. If you don't have the ******, just connect a 90 deg from the back of the pass side head that has a plug in it and take the coolant out of there...
The PS pulley is 'pressed' on. I'll bet you have some clearance to press it back ever-so-slightly.
Let's not forget, the cars were hand built. I've seen tight tolerances on the 10-rib set-up before. Before you do what I'm about to suggest, check your paxton pulley alignment... if it is...
Looks awesome! And great move!
No disrespect, but for the rest of y'all considering this: Autozone has 18" length of 3" pipe for like 6 bucks. that plus a sawsall + 2 clamps and you are done in less than 3 hrs per side. 6 hrs total... that's a long day.
rock on! :headbang:
It bothers me that people post the same question on multiple forums. :rolaugh:
I'm not sure who gave the idea that a paxton needs to be rebuilt every 10k miles. The smartest thing to do would be to call Paxton and ask them rather than speculating. They will give you the MTBF (mean time...
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