Because you never called when you said you did.
I have better things to do than to help you, unfortunately. There are others who are both grateful and appreciative that deserve the time.
:headbang::headbang::headbang:
Hey Joe -
Bite me.
I've spent countless hours trying to help you. I'd given you my phone number. I told you when we could talk. I gave you DLM's contact info. I've guided you. I've given you suggestions. PMs and emails. And now you don't like the idea that you are in over your head so...
I looked at your email. The problem with remote troubleshooting is that when the person on the other end changes the variables (and thus the target) as we move along it is hard to keep track.
At this point, you have multiple things going on. Time to either swap it all out yourself and start...
It all depends on how you tune it and mix it. if you are 50/50 but only inject 1% of your fluid going into the motor, then you won't see much. use bigger jets and make it more like 60% of your mixture and you'll see 110-120 octane. gotta work out the #'s and get someone who knows how to tune...
Joe, Greg, Jeff... they can all work magic on heads. without a cam you are wasting your time. get your engine builder to spec out a cam for you. it'll be well worth it.
power comes from a combination of factors. headers for a viper are 1-2k and get you 10rwhp... but when combined w/ a supercharger get you a lot more. and when combined with a properly built combination yields even more power.
When i upgraded my heads from a stage2 port job to a stage3 port...
You need to CALL casper if you want to order the round ones. a friend of mine ordered on-line and ended up w/ the sqaure ones even though he needed round. some years use the round and some the square.
JD
Definitely the same dyno I use. But I don't know whos car that is. power curve looks like a ROE. I don't know who Travis is, but if he gives me a call i'll help him tune if he wants help!
JD
I put a hurst in my gen2 w/ the MGW knob. I like it a lot. the SVS one looks good too. i haven't tried it yet. no matter what you do you will be happy, though. i can assure you of that!
JD
The TeamTech seems to be one of the standards for vipers. check out partsrack.com for details. they have a 5pt and a 6pt.
Personally, I used a simpson el-cheapo and a teamtech and the teamtech (albeit $200+) is a LOT more comfortable. both 5pt and 6pt. Plus, you get to pick all your...
Yes. But I have 3 jobs as it is so i don't have time to get on the phone to do anything with it. you can send me some screen shots or a dump of the program, however...
Jim - I've done it a few times, so less than 3 hrs for me on a stock car. closer to 2 hrs on a ROE car. This includes time to remove the hood, drain the fluids (coolant AND oil), and get everything off.
it is really quite easy and straight forward. Remove intake air stuff. remove intake...
I'm glad you are away. I need the break from answering the same question over and over. w/o sounding like a jerk, this board needs a basic-troubleshooting-101 course. if we had it now, you'd fail.
but you are almost on your way to getting the car to work!
JD
Forget the Split Second for a minute. There are 2 wires going to each pump. hook up a battery directly to the pump. use a 9v if you have to. 1pos and 1neg. you have no idea if the pumps actually work or not!
the trigger wire should get volts but the + should be on all the time when the car is 'on'.
the trigger triggers the relay to close the circuit casing the pumps to turn on.
So go get two wires and hook up the pumps directly to a battery. OR disconnect the wires on the relays and jumper them to a 9v battery. trying to figure out if the fuel pumps are shot...
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