Did you guys have any trouble bolting the brackets on? It seems that the holes are 1 mm too small.
Also, does anyone have any pictures on how they routed the brake lines.
Thanks.
Looking at the Alpine website, the X100 is the cheaper version of the X001:
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.
Oh, and the Boston Pro 60 are $284 on Amazon for this year's model so you can still save money on that.
Here is a cheaper alternative that may arguably sound better:
iPod Solutions
Alpine iDA-x001 Digital Media Receiver: $241 on Amazon
PDX Amplifiers
PDX-1.600 Mono Power Density Digital Amplifier: $275 on Amazon
PDX-4.100 4/3/2 Channel Power Density Digital Amplifier: $275 on Amazon
Speakers...
Just get a can of R134a at Wallmart and fill it up. I live close to Miami. Mine was a cold breeze before, now it's an arctic wind.
Yes the Viper AC can be really efective if filled properly.
Yep, I would not worry about heel/toe especially if it's not second nature to you yet. On most tracks you can just keep the Viper in third gear and you will have no issues. You will most likely have more power than anybody there.
But if you want to heel/toe the stock pedals only work if you...
The univeral cap works fine. It might take you another minute to get the chain properly set but it's really no big deal.
I've had the system for 3 years. Must have changed the brake fluid at least 20 times. No issues.
I think the actuator bars just lower the pedal. In my opinion the Viper clutch is way too light to begin with so making it twice as hard to push down would be no big deal.
My old 1990 mustang GT clutch effort was probably 3-4 times what the viper is. Now that was a real clutch...
Now that I think about it, this is a hydraulic system so how about convincing Big Brake Dave to manufacture basically a larger cylinder to push the fluid? This way the travel could theoretically be reduced by 50%.
I sure would buy that.
Even if you adjust the pedals independently the distance you have to push the cluth in is the same. I do have the Roe lowering kit but the difference is really minimal.
What we need is a way to change the ratio dramatically. About half the distance that it travels now I think would be cool.
That's possible only if they do NO surface preparation at all. Do you have any nicks or scratches on the wheels at all?
What about chroming them instead of powdercoating?
Absolutelly unbelievable stuff. It's almost like spray paint. The plastic parts in the engine bay look glossy now.
Griot's Garage 1-800-345-5789 - Misc Car Care
Just reinstalled the sides last week after installing a new Corsa and HF cats.
No glue and no rattles at all. The original glue had long lost it's holding power anyway. When I took the sides off the insulation came out real easy.
As the guy before said, I think all you are creating is a fire...
Remains to be seen. I am doing the surface preparation myself now and will take it to get chromed tomorrow.
Does make me wonder why dodge did not use a better material though.
Thought you might want to know:
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/607317-buyer-beware-r-j-distributing.html
As far as chroming, they don't do any surface preparation so the cap looks really pitted underneath.
They say they have every nut and bolt:
Hardware & Specialty Fasteners :: Hardware & Shop Tools :: Snake-Oyl Products :: Dodge Viper Products, Parts, Accessories
PS: If you do talk to them, please find out if they have them in chrome or at least stainless steel?
Re: RT/10 & GTS Mopar Race Header P5007020 - Anyone using these with more info on the
I do plan on doing a comprehensive polish with zaino and feel the only way to clean it was with a very nice wash the same way this guy does it on this link. DF Concours products
Not to steal the thread but I...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.