Headlamp switch short?

[V10SpeedLuvr]

I'm 99% sure I know whats wrong, but just wanted to check with you guys. When I go to turn my headlights on, they come on, but if I bump the switch with my knee or anything, the lights go out. I then have to wiggle the switch to get them to come back on. I'm assuming its a short in the switch, but just wanted to make sure there isnt an easier fix than replacing the switch.

Question 2- Assuming the switch does need replacing, how do I get the old switch out?

TIA!

 

[99 R/T 10]

Hey Chad,
first, do have a service manual? If not, get one. It has a detailed description on how to remove the light switch. second, It is very common for the Gen I light switch to go bad, I had to replace mine in my old 96. While in use the plug that goes into the switch get so hot, it ends up melting everything together in the switch(makes it very hard to pull it apart). I just pulled the one out of the 93 RT I am parting out, let me know if you need it.

Mike

 

[SSNAKE]

PULL the lower panel off and check the switch for melting. It is common for them to melt.... DC MSRP $75

 

[Randy]

I went through a light switch on my Gen 1, and it melted the connector enough that I had to splice a new connector in (I didn't feel like replacing whole wiring harness).

Removing and replacing the switch is about a 20 minute job. Pull the lower kick panel off (four screws or so?), push the button on top of the headlight switch housing (behind the dash - you have to feel for it) to release the knob and shaft from the switch body, then unscrew the ring bolt around the shaft to release the switch assembly from the dash, then disconnect the wiring harness from it (you can disconnect the wiring at any time - not real important in the order of assembly). Put the new one in, tighten the ring bolt, attach the wiring connector, push the knob/shaft in until it clicks in place, put the lower kick panel back on.

Now, if you have a melted connector, then you've got a fun hour or so of splicing a new one in.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

I dont think mine is melted because its only a problem keeping the lights on if my knee bumps the switch. I dont have any problems turning the headlamps on. If any wiring was melted, the lights wouldnt come on at all, right?

 

[Randy]

I dont think mine is melted because its only a problem keeping the lights on if my knee bumps the switch. I dont have any problems turning the headlamps on. If any wiring was melted, the lights wouldnt come on at all, right?

Well, mine was working generally OK - every now and then I had to play with the switch to get it to work. The killer was when I see this wisp of smoke coming from my dash . Yeah, unless you've been smelling burnt plastic and seeing smoke from your dash, you're probably OK.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Well looks like mine is melted as well. I tried for almost an hour to seperate the connector from the switch and no luck. Where can i buy a new connector to splice in? I'd assume Dodge only sold the full wiring harness. Is it something Jon B or some of the Viper graveyard places would sell?

 

[Randy]

I got the whole wiring harness from a dealer (this was in 2000 or so). Then I cut the new connector out (with plenty of spare wire) and cut the old one out, then spliced the new one in. Lots o' fun. Thats reportedly a lot less work than trying to replace the whole harness, as that supposedly requires removing the dash and all gauges out of the car. Its only something like 19 wires...

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

That sounds like loads of freaking fun. If I hold off on the repair, am i taking any big risks? The car is rarely driven at night, but I'm going to FL in a few days and will be doing plenty of late night cruising so my headlights will be on a lot. The last thing I want is the switch to overheat and start a fire in the dash

 

[Randy]

I imagine it would be a bit of a risk. I got very spooked by the smoke curling from behind my dash that I did mine before I drove it any more. The problem will be getting the harness, of course. But, once you get it, its really not that time consuming - use heat shrink tubing for the insulation, cut the old connector off to get as much wire as possible without keeping any of the damaged wires so you have room to work with, and it will take about an hour or so to do.

If you're really up against the wall from a time perspective (i.e., you won't have the replacement connector in time), you might go over the service manual to see what connections you need to be able to make, and just put some other temporary switch (or, more likely switch"es") in place to close the needed connections. You can always cut them back out afterwards when you get the right connector.

 

[Jay Herbert]

Well looks like mine is melted as well. I tried for almost an hour to seperate the connector from the switch and no luck. Where can i buy a new connector to splice in? I'd assume Dodge only sold the full wiring harness. Is it something Jon B or some of the Viper graveyard places would sell?

Contact Doug Levin, that's where I got mine. It is a truck (diesel) TSB part.

Ram Headlamp Switch Recall Info

The kit comes with the switch, wires to splice into the harness, shrink tube sealing covers, a park lamp relay harness, and instructions. This its the way to go. I did mine the only way possible to make it an unseen repair... I cut the connector apart one terminal at a time (for the ones melted in) and popped out the others inserting them in one at a time into the new connector. I stood on my head for about an hour, and my hair looked like snow from all the plastic chips the Dremmel tool made.

When my project Viper gets home I will redo the headlight wiring like I did on my Diesel truck putting in a relay harness to take the headlight power out of the switch, this eliminates any possibility of a melted switch.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Thanks Jay. I wonder why Dodge never issued a TSB or recall on this for Vipers?? Between this and their refusal to recall the p/s caps, I wonder if Dodge wanted us to all have burnt up Vipers

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

I was lucky enough to find the recall kit in stock at my local Dodge dealer. I think price was around $45 retail. I paid $28 after getting my wholesale discount. It includes everything you need. The $30 aftermarket switch I bought yesterday is going back to Napa. I'll install the connector and switch tomorrow. Thanks again Jay!