P0320 with no check engine light

cdover73

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With the problem I am having with my ignition switch short, I noticed yesterday when I took it out that when I started it a code flashed in the odometer window. It didn't stay long enough for me to see it fully. So I did the key on, key off 3x to check for codes and it showed the P0320. Strange thing is I have no other light on warning me of it.

Could this just be a low voltage from battery glitch that just needs to be reset by unhooking and resetting the system? Or is my crankshaft position sensor going south? The car runs fine. I did a search and saw a lot of these codes were battery and cold weather related. Any advice?
 

ViperJeff

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I would fix the known problem with the ignition first. Working multiple possibly unrealed problems simultaneously can be problematic
 
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cdover73

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Very true! I was mainly asking to see if it was a known common issue or not though. Switch has been ordered.
 

ViperJeff

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Most of the guys I know that get these.... Over time, they become a problem. Keep in mind, I know more people who drive GEN III Viper Trucks than GEN III Vipers
 
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cdover73

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Is it safe to run it until i can get a new one? I havent researched it but is it a DIY job to replace or will i have to take it in to a tech?
 

ViperJeff

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Difficult question...

When it goes bad for good, and your on the road, yikes.

has it reoccurred or was it a one tie event
 
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cdover73

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I have never noticed ANY event. The car drives fine. The only way I know the code was there was I remembered those year Dodges used the key on/off x3 to check the codes in the odometer window, so I tried it one day to see if anything was there and that's when I found it.

I had a CPS go out on a 1994 3/4 ton Ram 4x4 360ci. The only thing it did was make the engine turn over a bunch of times before it finally started. But it would crank and drive fine. What would happen if it goes out completely on the Viper? Why do you say 'yikes'? This is why I asked if it would hurt anything to drive it. I would think it would just throw a fault code and at worst stop the engine. The internals should still be fine because it's not like it will throw the timing out and bend valves and pushrods or put a valve through a piston. The rotating assembly shouldn't be affected. I just may be walking...is that what you meant?
 

ViperJeff

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I said yikes only because when total failure occurs, time for a rollback

Checking for codes is a good thing, always made my day when I saw "done"
 
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cdover73

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Battery pull??? And I do apologize for all the questions. It looks like it's a fairly easy task to change it. I just wanna make sure everything is done correctly after. I know Dodge has the learning computer and in some of my other vehicles all that was needed was a half a day or so of driving for it to reset itself.
 

ViperJeff

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i know in Gen III its just a disconnect of the battery to reset a code. Its been awhile so I can't remember the time to leave it disconnected, i think it was 30 seconds
 
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cdover73

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Picked up my sensor today. Probably install it this weekend. I haven't looked under to see whether I will have to drop the pans or not to get to it. Any up front advice or tricks to save me time changing it out???
 
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cdover73

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Update...I haven't gotten around to changing the sensor, but plan to this weekend while installing my high flow cats. I do have one questions though. Would it be easier to change it from underneath or through the engine bay? I haven't even looked for it an apologize for my laziness in asking, but it would help me gain a plan of attack before I spend valuable time in the maintenance bay I am renting for the exhaust upgrade. If I know how-to before getting there and trying to figure it out it will save me time and money. Thanks in advance if anybody can answer this.
 

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