Pre-Oil sitting Viper, MORE help Please....

dunce

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 30, 2006
Posts
12
Reaction score
0
Thanks for the post. So no distributor...so cancel the power drill pre-lube.

Thank for the insight on the Fuel pump relay.

THINKING now....Plugs out, little mist oil in cylinders (Fogging oil or WD-40), Add about a quart and a half....so as to flow down the push rods and maybe hit the cam on the way to the pan, Kill the Fuel pump, and Kill the ignition. Spin, good pressure, replace plugs, start-up, change oil which will remove excess oil.

HOW do I kill the ignition on a 2005 vert.

thanks
mark
knoxville

-----------end--------------------------


I believe the oil pump is in the front engine cover, so I think you aren't going to be able to prime it. Pull the fuel pump relay. You don't want to kill spark (and pump fuel) as that will wash down the walls.


That will do it as there is not a distributor on a viper. I believe the Fuel pump relay or fuse in in the power distribution box on the left fender under the hood.
 

zorroespanol

VCA Member - New England
VCA Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Posts
770
Reaction score
0
Location
Miami Beach, Fla. U.S.A.
Are you guys ********? you'll still have all the engine parts moving, how is it different from having an ignition in the combustion chamber??

Priming through the distributor pumps oil through the engine but the crank, camshaft, etc... DO NOT move.

If you run a dry engine it doesn't matter if it is run by fuel, by a starter, or by driving the car in gear down the hill. same Deal.

So basically you are out of luck, just crank the car and keep your fingers crossed.
 

Tom F&L GoR

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Posts
4,983
Reaction score
5
Location
Wappingers Falls
Thank you for the endearing start to your comment, zippo. I guess I should audition for a caveman in the Geico commercials.

Perhaps the best example of "harm" is in an alcohol burning race engine. The air-fuel ratio is such that most of the fuel is using for evaporative cooling rather than to combust it and so the cylinder walls are constantly rinsed of oil. Top Fuel dragsters have so much fuel delivered that if they miss one firing event, the second shot of fuel hydraulically locks the cylinder, the nitromethane initiates combustion via the heat of compression (needing no oxygen) and blows the cylinder head off. Fuel while cranking for extended periods is "bad" and is one reason your swell-running Viper does not run the fuel pump 100% while cranking. It cycles on and off...

A never-run engine might benefit from pumping oil since it fills the oil gallery and greatly shortens the time that it takes for oil to reach those moving parts. It's the same mythical fear about starting an engine in the cold; the thick oil won't reach the furthest part of the engine for 60 seconds or so. Priming gets it there and upon the first movement, the oil will under pressure and where you want it.

The fact is that the Viper engine was run at least once and probably several times. While the liquid oil may run back to the pan, the wear protection and friction modifier additives are polar; they are surface-active and stay on the metal parts. They are more than enough to protect the engine during this perceived "dry start". If you've ever seen an advertisement for engine oil that gets to all the moving engine parts sooner, yet you wonder why other engines don't fall apart because their oil arrived later... it's because the critical period is protected by additives.

Mark, crank a few times without the fuel pump relay and then get it started. Do not rev the engine for a few minutes after it runs. Yes, it will clatter a little but that will not shorten the life of the engine. Then have fun with it.
 

AZTVR

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 28, 2005
Posts
3,043
Reaction score
7
Location
Chandler AZ
That's what I always thought. The point is to get oil to fill the galleries so that you generate oil pressure and flow oil to the bearing surfaces as quickly as possible. Better to do that at the starter driven 60 RPM before the engine starts running rather than at 1500 RPM after it fires if you can't do it with a pre-oiling situation.
 
OP
OP
D

dunce

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 30, 2006
Posts
12
Reaction score
0
*********** Ignition... Pre-Oil sitting Viper, MORE help Please....

How do I kill the ignition power??? I am going to remove plugs, Spray WD40 and spin with starter to prime. Plugs out so much less pressure on main and rod bearings. And prior to that add a quart or two of oil at a high rate to flood the area around "all" the pushrods as to dripple some fresh oil on the cam along each pushrod. How do you kill the Vipers ignition??

z
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
153,263
Posts
1,682,502
Members
17,773
Latest member
ctrengine
Top