Another question for the oil gurus.

Luvjet

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If Red Line gear oil is installed in the differential, do I still need to put in the limited slip additive? I understand that it already has it. Would more not be better? Or is it overkill.
 

BlackACR

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Good question, I have always used Mobil 1 in the rear of my vettes with no additive. I wonder if it is the same for the viper?????
 

Y2K5SRT

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While I can't comment exactly on this, I can tell you that no additive with the regular fluid DOES cause problems for sure. I left my dealership after some rear end work was done and it made a very large "clunking" sound on tight turns. The dealership told me it might be the Porsche brake deflectors I installed. It continued to get worse and I was getting worried. I took it to a local dealer and they couldn't figure it out. We cut the brake deflectors off of the car and crossed our fingers. Still made that horrible noise.

I finally tried another dealership and the Viper tech asked if I had anything done to the rear end. He then suggested it might not have the limited-slip additive in it. I checked my original receipt (where I was charged for every single tie wrap) and there was no charge for the additive listed. I had the rear fluid swapped out and the additive put in. Noise ALL GONE! While I don't know about overkill, there is no way I will ever get anything done on the rear differential without making sure the additive is present. Gotta have it!

Chris
 

grayman

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Y2KGTS,
That is a very interesting post. I guess the proof is in the puddin. I wouldnt have thought the additive would have made a difference in sound in rear but what the heck do I know. I can tell you that my senior project in college, Mech. Engineering, a few years back involved oil testing and performance and Mobil 1 synthetic will beat any of the synthetics we tested (didnt test redline) and completely annihilate any petroleum based oil in performance characteristics.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Usually the rear end additive is a friction modifier that controls the stick-slip characteristics of the clutch plates or cones in the limited slip unit. If there is no friction modifier, the plates stick until the wheels are traveling at a different enough speed (i.e. turns) until they break loose - you get noise, clunking of u-joints, and probably a "hopping" feel. If you ever put an off-road four-wheel drive in 4WD and tried to turn into a parking spot, you know the "hop." Add the friction modifier and the plates slide smoothly, yet the pressure on the plates keeps both wheels pushing the car forward.

*In many cases* a replacement gear oil may not have any friction modifier and performance depends on whatever friction modifier was in the rear end before - this kind of additive "sticks" to metals and isn't flushed out when you drain the oil. You'll perhaps see warnings that the oil is suitable for top-up, but not replacement.

And, of course, since we've seen how an additive makes a difference in a rear end, I have to add that synthetic oils are not automatically the king of performance; the additive package matters (to coin a phrase).
 

ntmatter

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So, can I buy the correct gear oil and additives at my local auto parts store? If so, can anyone tell me a recommended brand for each, and how much I should get? Finally, is it tough to replace the gear oil? Is it something I can do in my car-hole with a jack, bucket, and wrench?
 

Steve 00RT/10

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I will be installing Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 synthetic gear lube in our car this spring. It has the friction modifier in it.

Steve
 
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