Best and Worst Mods for GTS?

[Ray W]

I did say based on return it is not a good value. It is not a mod that the unfamiliar should attempt. I realized about 9rwhp. If you can't do it yourself it's going to cost you $900-1000.00. Also not everyone knows how to correct the valvetrain geometry.

Later on with heads,blower,NOS or cam it is a good addition and a little more hp may be gained.

 

[fastlane8]

Worst Mods: Allowing SVS within 300 miles of your car

Now that's funny,I don't care what they smell like!

 

[RevHeat]

While you are modding, I would get the following:

(1) Dave's Power Steering Bracket and Pulley
(2) Roe Racing Power Steering Vent Tube

I would get these before I started to mod the car.

Rev

 

[RTTTTed]

Let's summarize a few comments from Chuck, RTTTTed, and others:

Brains (Viper Days, drving school) and Brakes (more, bigger, better)

You spend all that effort to "go" so you will need something additional to "slow". If you haven't found out yet, which you certainly will after your installing your supercentrifugal-nitrous-ported-headers, that the OEM brakes are marginal!!! They are several choices that work - from least expensive (40mm caliper swap) to bling (Dave's Big Brakes) to race car SRT parts (from JonB.) Decide what you want to pay and how you want it to look, but you'll never, never feel comfortable using all the extra power if you aren't sure where it's going to land.

Just my 0.02, and since I moved up to site supporter, I get to preach like this now. Kinda fun!

It is foolish to go fast when there are so many parts to make these cars stop as good as the fastest cars on the planet.

My first GTS (98) had Tom's rear caliper upgrade, 2 pc rotors and stopped great. After a driving course I put 14" 2 piece brakes and PS2s on my 01 GTS because I wanted to stop as good as the newer Vipers. My car is faster than all stock Vipers and I felt it required ACR equivalent brakes.

Since my GTS already had the Roe Racing pwer steering pump vent installed I had assumed my car also had the billet power steering pump bracket. Since the bracket broke last time I drove my car, I waiting for my Roe Racing bracket right now!

Ted

 

[Detlef]

I live at altitude, so regaining some seat of the pants feel to make up for less power was 3.73:1 gears. Then for sounds, not much can beat Belanger headers, HF cats and catback exhaust. It makes me smile everytime I step on the go pedal. Then bigger brakes and then better rubber. Of course learning to use the bigger brakes on the track requires HPDEs and driving courses.

 

[JonB]

Thanks Jon, are there any pics of the air box on your website? The only one I can see is for the SRT10?

You must be registered for see images

When the hood closes, the NACA feeds air to this box. The lower lip isolates the hot radiator air..... the box is CF.....

ps.....opinions vary widely, but I am NOT fond of the fan kit that causes the elec fan to run after the water pump stops, and the motor is off. I certainly dont think "all Vipers need this." Why cool the radiator water while the block is heat-soaking? Very little water moves by convection from rad to block when the water pump is stopped. Vipers have LONG cable-runs from the battery, and many Vipers (esp 96-97) eat batteries. If you have a 2-3year old battery, some run-on fan kits will take you below the 10.4 volts needed to make the coilpaks fire. I have seen cars with that fan kit drain the battery and then NOT START. I just open my hoods slightly between track sessions to avoid heat-soak issues. (That also protects the paint) If having a cooler radiator on re-startup means something to you, or if you are having overheat-heat soak issues, then by all means...... but have a GOOD battery! Or just open your hood...

 

[dave6666]

You must be registered for see images

When the hood closes, the NACA feeds air to this box. The lower lip isolates the hot radiator air..... the box is CF.....

But but but... Will I have to ditch my Vipair?



Sorry for that outburst. But I do have a Vipair. I've been challenged to paint it white by ViperTony. I'm still pondering.

Anyway, I do think those dual cone air boxes look kind of cool. Are there any with provisions for air intake from in front of the radiator area?

 

[Fatboy 18]

Im liking this thred, its throwing up some intresting stuff

Ok, I have a question again on Air flow / Filters,

Jon B, When I posted the pics of my cone air filters and chrome tubes you said qoute: "Droop-Snoot" chrome intake tubes that hang off the throttle bodies, and have Cone or Canister filters hanging from them. The bending of the airflow approx 70-degrees is the FIRST bad idea.

Now looking at the pic posted of the air box you sell, those rubber tubes are bent at the same degree. I understand the idea of shrouding the heat and bringing in cold air, but surley with the tubes at the same angle its not much better?

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

FIRST AND FOREMOST - JOIN VCA

Sign Into The Club's Private Sections, Expecially The How To Section And Start To Seriously Get Down To Business.

What you need are well sorted recommendations and examples of results.

You must be registered for see images

 

[Fatboy 18]

Now im liking that pic That looks cool In the right colour too

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

Dave,

My unit has the Vipair flip in it...see the how to section.

FOR NON MEMBERS, THIS IS ONE OF MANY SHOTS ON THE SINGLE TOPIC OF AIR FILTER, AIR BOX, AIR TUBES TO BE FOUND IN THE MEMBERS ONLY SECTION.

JOIN THE VCA AND GET YOUR ACT/VIPER TOGETHER

 

[Fatboy 18]

Just read the article in the How To section Thanks for posting the link

THAT LOOKS GREAT

Looks like a large part to ship though

 

[JonB]

...Ok, I have a question again on Air flow / Filters,

Jon B, When I posted the pics of my cone air filters and chrome tubes you said qoute: "Droop-Snoot" chrome intake tubes that hang off the throttle bodies, and have Cone or Canister filters hanging from them. The bending of the airflow approx 70-degrees is the FIRST bad idea.

Now looking at the pic posted of the air box you sell, those rubber tubes are bent at the same degree. I understand the idea of shrouding the heat and bringing in cold air, but surley with the tubes at the same angle its not much better?

You seek airflow in as straight a path (laminar) as possible, to avoid turbulence. The straighter the better..... a kink does not damn the product. But the **** CF-KN box gentle kinks are probably why it makes no more HP than tubes-filters alone! But the HOT AIR location of the droop-snoots below is just plain bad......

You must be registered for see images

 

[Fatboy 18]

Thanks for the reply Jon I have only had my viper a few months and am learning all the time thanks to the VCA and Members like yourself, Its all good stuff on this forum

 

[mdurbahn]

I am reading right that you don't want to change out gears if you plan to FI in the future? I never use 6th gear and would probably like some deeper gears but will probably turbo or supercharge sooner or later.

 

[JonB]

If you plan to go S/C-Turbos do a 3:33....but LOTS of S/C guys love their 355s IF-IF-IF they have sticky tires

 

[FE 065]

Sometimes a little innovation can do more than just buying stuff:

This made for a nice SOTP increase

You must be registered for see images attach

Though it wouldn't appeal to posers


This boosted low end/mid range really nice

You must be registered for see images attach

and this has added on over 20hp on every Viper I've put it on

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[RTTTTed]

SRT engineers at VOI said that insulating the airbox's bottom allowed 20F lower temps during operating. Although you will not get a power increase you will prevent the computer from decreasing timing and robbing hp from your engine. Should be getting installed on the '09s.

Ted

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

N/A motor? Got pics of the install?

and this has added on over 20hp on every Viper I've put it on

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[dave6666]

SRT engineers at VOI said that insulating the airbox's bottom allowed 20F lower temps during operating. Although you will not get a power increase you will prevent the computer from decreasing timing and robbing hp from your engine. Should be getting installed on the '09s.

Ted

Would that be effective on the Gen2 stock airbox?

 

[Fatboy 18]

So where do the Black flexi tubes on the air box go?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

So where do the Black flexi tubes on the air box go?

I'm guessing they go to a turbo.

 

[dave6666]

I'm guessing they go to a turbo.

Wouldn't they like MELT or EXPLODE? Heat and pressure....?

I'm thinking cold air intake kind of thing. Super Vipair!

 

[Fatboy 18]

Wouldn't they like MELT or EXPLODE? Heat and pressure....?

I'm thinking cold air intake kind of thing. Super Vipair!

Im also thinking Cold air, But am wondering if its picking it up from under the front of the car?

 

[dave6666]

Im also thinking Cold air, But am wondering if its picking it up from under the front of the car?

Exactly what my Vipair with the Roe fascia mod does...

 

[GTS Bruce]

Lots of good suggestions but here is one everyone seems to have missed. A DC computer reflash. Eliminates skip shift. Turns on fans sooner. Car runs cooler, smoother and better. A/F( usualy way too rich NA) and timing for you use of higher octane gas instead of 91 are corrected. Only gained about 20 peak RWHP in my car and around 30 peak FTLB RWTQ. However the area under the power curve is MUCH larger. Before and after 4th gear dyno pulls were timed. The run from 2500 to 6000 RPM was made 1 full second faster in 4th gear after the computer tune. It impressed the dyno jocks (Mostly drag racers) and you will be impressed at getting down to the next corner much quicker and having to shift up one more time when you just used to hit the top of a gear before braking. GTS Bruce

 

[mdurbahn]

Lots of good suggestions but here is one everyone seems to have missed. A DC computer reflash. Eliminates skip shift. Turns on fans sooner. Car runs cooler, smoother and better. A/F( usualy way too rich NA) and timing for you use of higher octane gas instead of 91 are corrected. Only gained about 20 peak RWHP in my car and around 30 peak FTLB RWTQ. However the area under the power curve is MUCH larger. Before and after 4th gear dyno pulls were timed. The run from 2500 to 6000 RPM was made 1 full second faster in 4th gear after the computer tune. It impressed the dyno jocks (Mostly drag racers) and you will be impressed at getting down to the next corner much quicker and having to shift up one more time when you just used to hit the top of a gear before braking. GTS Bruce

How did you get that done? Just bring it to a dealer and ask them to flash it?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Wouldn't they like MELT or EXPLODE? Heat and pressure....?

I'm thinking cold air intake kind of thing. Super Vipair!

I figured air inlet to the turbo not out. Heck, I don't know. Maybe N/A getting more cold air from somewhere.

 

[dave6666]

How did you get that done? Just bring it to a dealer and ask them to flash it?

The DC flash refers to the services of DC Performance. They are not just any dealer, but a Viper performance shop. If you do not take them your car, you must remove the PCM and send it to them with a dyno sheet including A/F.

 

[All Blue ACR]

Of all the mods I have done in the last year I think I just found out today that Woodhouse mounts was what my car needed most. MAN, what a difference ! (the 7 degrees celcius probably didn't hurt performance either )
Seems like it revs faster and it shifts like heaven. I didn't realize they could make such a big difference and that mine were that bad (or they were just bad stock). Car has only 13k on it too.