Brake Fluid

[GATOR SERPENT]

Anyone with Gen1 ever use Valvoline Synthetic Dot 4? Any comments? Thanks

 

[TAPROOT]

I have never used the Valvoline synthetic personally. I have a BAER RACING brake system on my SS ,I use only Castrol SRF. SRF is trusted by the biggest names in racing..If you want a good fluid with a HIGH boiling point get the SRF.I have heard of guys melting calipers to the pads before the SRF gave out.

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">I use it in my GENII and like it. Don't see any reason why you couldn't use it in a GENI.

I've been told not to use DOT 5 Silicone fluid, though I can't say I know why....</FONT f>

 

[GTS Dean]

If you have money running freely from every bodily orifice, then by all means, use SRF! If not, then use AP600. Many swear by Motul 600, but oddly (to me anyways), most of those folks have to bleed their brakes every day at the track. I'd rather drive every session.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I've use it in my '94, I think it's very good stuff. I ran at Lime Rock and used up new R4S pads in only 30 minutes, but didn't have any fluid problems.

 

[DanElam]

I switched to Motul after a suggestion from one of the Team Viper guys in New Jersey. I was playing with my street Viper down at Carolina Motorsports Park (Kershaw) when the brakes builed. Kershaw goes through brakes more than most places, but it wasn't fun coming into a corner at 120MPH pumping in vain with a BMW inches from my $10,000 hood. I immediately switched and now make a point to keep the fluid very clear.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I'm switching to SRF after I use up all these bottles of Motul I stocked up on.

 

[RockyTop]

I concur with Dean. I had used only street fluid and then Motul 600. I have boiled both and realize I need better cooling to my calipers (not the rotors guys !). Mine is a street car with slightly "upgraded" front brakes (Alcon 4 piston) and I have boiled brand new Motul 600 twice.

At Dean's suggestion I tried the AP600 fluid the last two times out with no squishy pedal. I'm sold. Essex Automotive (or something likme that, I know Essex is the first name) in *******, GA sells it and always has it in stock. They also deal in Coleman rotors as a cheaper alternative to Alcon and other rotor discs. You just send them a disc and they have make em to your spec. for much cheaper than you would think. I forget their number (770 area code). They have a guy there who's theior technical brake guy who is very knowledgeable (and whose name I constantly forget).

Bottom Line: The Motul 600 is definitely a step up, but the AP fluid is better and less then the Castrol dope. The AP runs less than or about $20/bottle. As for its compatibility with other DOT 4 fluids, they say don't mix em.

 

[JonB]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tom, F&L GoR:
I ran at Lime Rock and used up new R4S pads in only 30 minutes, but didn't have any fluid problems. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Porterfield R4S is a street pad. S for street.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

$70/liter (which is 2.11 pints). That translates to about $33/pint. www.racerpartswholesale.com.

Motul $9 - $13/pint.

 

[Janni]

OK, one more time... Here are the wet and dry boiling points for a few different fluids... And the wet BP is more important, as your fluid degrades as soon as you open the container.

AP 551................ Dry 527......Wet 302 (yuk)
AP 600................ Dry 590......Wet 410
Motul 600............. Dry 585......Wet 421
Brakeman.............. Dry 577......Wet 300 (yuk)
Castrol SRF........... Dry 590......Wet 518!!!!!

Sorry for the chart, ir looks good before I hit send...

The AP 600 MAY have improved their numbers some - if anyone has updated info, please let me know - I checked APs site and could not find any specs.. The NASCAR supply shop we use says that they sell a ton (AP600) and that Motul is for motorcycles. We've put AP 600 in club members cars who are not running as many events as we are, and everyone has been very pleased.

Chuck is right, ounce for ounce the SRF is a bit more, but as ******* the brakes as we are (Viper Days, Super Stock - no ducting, stock calipers...) we have NEVER had fluid issues. Bleeding after the event is NOT a complete flush - the fluid discolors to give you an idea of where the bad stuff ends. So we are NOT dumping a liter of SRF through each car after each event and we are NOT bleeding brakes during an event - even a three day one.

So, depending on how you flush your brakes, the SRF may actually be cheaper! (Well, its the logic we use, anyway..) But all in all, the formulation of SRF is completely different than any other brake fluid, so it is OVERALL less hygroscopic - that's why no other fluid comes close to the wet BP.

If you are using fluid that degrades fast, then FLUSH those brakes. Pay close attention to your pedal feel - as soon as they get the slightest bit spongy - COME IN and bleed, cause its not going to get any better.

I think brake fluid is cheap insurance.

 

[GTS Dean]

In recent times, (when I was hitting the track 4-6 times a year) I was putting in a fresh bottle of AP600 about once every 8 or 9 months. This was usually triggered at the first hint of softness in the pedal. I was running aggressive PFC pads and big tires with no cooling ducts. One pint of fluid is enough to flush a stock brake system if you do it right.

I had tried AP550 for a while before going to 600, but I still was troubled with the problem of occasional track boil. My guess is that AP550 and Motul 600 probably perform very close to the same.

AP600 costs between $17 and $22 per 500ml (16.9 oz) bottle, depending on where you buy. Archer sells it at the track during Viper Days events. Like I said, nothing wrong with SRF but the price.

 

[slaughterj]

What about for use as clutch fluids, I seem to recall one of these had something on their website about it not being good for such use (something about magnesium?)?