How to adjust Gen II throttle cable?

Flyntgr

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My '96 GTS was bucking, so I took it in the Vipertech at a local Dodge dealer. He replaced the tps (bad, fluctuating), Map sensor and a couple of O2 sensors. It is better, but still is not smooth in operation. Some of your responses to my post a couple of weeks ago suggested the throttle cable could be out of adjustment, even though it is the newer single cable setup. I have adjusted the Gen. I type on my older '94 RT/10 until I wised up and got the factory screw kit for the permanent fix. But I don't know how to adjust the Gen. II GTS I now own. Anyone able to explain how to do it? Thanks.
 

Steve-Indy

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I have not attempted to adjust gen II cable...but some have by sliding bracket ( loosen both bolts) on left side that holds cable. As I envision it, this might help IF cable stretched a small amount and you are not getting WOT with gas pedal floored...not sure what this does for bucking. Please let us know what you find out.
 

Ron

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<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Steve is correct, the only adjustment on a GEN II cable is for WOT. The bucking on GEN I's was because of out of sync throttles. Not possible on GEN II as the are tied together via the throttle shaft.

To adjust a GEN II for full WOT, you should use a feeler gauge (.038 if I remember right) underneath you gas pedal and slide the throttle cable plate on top of your intake manifold so the throttles are wide open. Requires two individuals.

1996 GTS had a TSB on this as the stock throttle bracket did not have long enough slot for proper adjustment. You could either bring the car back for the updated bracket if under warranty or order one from Jon B. at a cost of $15.00.

If you need the part number or the TSB, let me know and I'll fax it over.

You should know though that at very low rpm's some bucking is normal. Nature of the beast. Just a signal to downshift.</FONT f>
 
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Flyntgr

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Yes, the flywheel is stock. I have K&N's, Roe VE-1, and no cats. The car ran fine for a year, but has recently been harder to drive without bucking. Anyone have the procedure to adjust the cable? There is a screw in the linkage between the two TB's. How is the adjustment accomplished? Thanks.
 
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Flyntgr

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The throttle shaft screw was the problem. I backed it off just a wee bit and this took out the bucking! I have WOT on driver's side, but only 98% on the passenger side throttle body. Is there any way to get them both adjusted to WOT with the left opening before the right? Will the feeler gauge at .039 do that? Thanks!
 

Sean Roe

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Hi Guys,

Reggie,
If the calibrator is still set correctly (around +14 on the low and -16 on the high should be about right for your car) and the tech changed a few bad components as you had mentioned, here's what I'd look into.

First, make sure the tech reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery. If he changed the components and did not erase the old settings from the PCM, the car will still drive a little off until it relearns.

Second, once the battery has been disconnected and the memory erased, you'll have to teach the PCM the throttle range of the Throttle Position Switch. Do this by turning the key to on, and press the gas pedal to the floor, hold, release full and repeat once again. This will show the PCM the range the throttle travels in. Until you show the PCM where 100% throttle is, itwill think 100% is just the highest you've had it before. This is why some cars pickup more power on their second dyno pulls also. The driver did not show the PCM 100% throttle on the way to the dyno.

Third, I'd look into the fuel you have in the car. Poor quality fuel can cause surging at low throttle loads on Speed Density Fuel System cars (Viper).

Hope that helps.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Rick Martino:
Reggie,
I think your problem stems from the current programming of Roe chip previously installed. That chip feeds inputs to the idle air control motor located next to the right throttle body. It has a 1" hose running to the air filter housing. At idle it regulates the amount of air coming into the intake manifold while the throttle plates are almost completely closed. These inputs affecting idle speed are engine coolant temperature, throttle position, crankshaft position, brake switch and air conditioning request signals. Poor programming of this chip may allow too much or too little air coming into the intake manifold, via this route, necessitating manual adjustment of this screw.
If the factory paint seal was broken on the adjustment screw then whoever installed the chip may have had to mess with it to smooth out the idle.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rick,

The idle RPM is preset into the factory PCM and our calibrator will not alter that RPM. The engine will always go back to what the PCM is set to regulate it at. There is also a runner cast into the intake manifold that connects the two intake plenums so that both sides are seeing the same volume of air / vacuum at idle. If one throttle body was open a bit more than the other, at idle, the idle air motor would still regulate the RPM to the preset, but it would probably open the air passage less to do so.

Our VEC1 alters the load calculation of the PCM and this occurs at "load". The greater the load, the more it can adjust the load calibration. Load calibration of the PCM controls how much injector duty cycle percentage and spark advance the engine is given. If we take this adjustment outside of the range the PCM expects to see, the PCM will set a trouble code and the engine will run poorly. Therefore, we have a voltage clamp on the system that keeps the user adjustments in check. No mechanical adjustments are necessary to properly set the calibrator.

The VEC1 corrects the times when the PCM is giving the engine too much fuel / too little spark advance or too little fuel / too much spark advance under loads. This applies to both stock and modified engines.
 

Sean Roe

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Hi Rick,

Heck, no need to apologize about anything. I took no offense, had no reason to. Thanks for the input regarding the VEC1 description on our website. I suppose I could get a little more technical about it
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Regarding Reggie's car, I don't see where he said that the adjustment of the throttle screw changed idle, only that it eliminated the bucking at low RPM part throttle? I agree with your comment that he should make adjustments to ensure both throttle bodies are getting WOT.

Regarding the voltage clamp, it simply keeps the VEC1 output to the PCM within a specified voltage range, so that the PCM does not set a code and cause the car to run poorly. We adjust the load calibration of the PCM in low and high load ranges, the PCM then alters the injector pulse width and spark advance accordingly.
 

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