Key Fob

ssstrong viper

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I have 2 key fobs....one of which works, the other doesn't. I tried to change the battery in the one that doesn't work....no dice. Do these things just crap out or can it be fixed. I'd like to get a new one so I always have a spare. Thanks in advance for your help.
 

Ulysses

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Hi Jim,

are both FOBs the fobs that came with the car? If one is a new FOB it will have to be programmed. Mike at Jack Powell Dodge can do it for you.
 
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ssstrong viper

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I believe both FOBs are original. The one that is currently not working used to work. I don't think replacing the battery requires you to reprogram....does it?

As for holding down both buttons until the horn honks...I believe I tried that already and it didn't work....perhaps I didn't hold the buttons down long enough?
 

jcaspar1

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The second one that came with my 97 GTS did not work till I reprogramed it. Don't follow the instructions in the Shop Manual as it is wrong. Here is the right way.(credit goes to whom ever posted this in the first place):

1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.
2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (since I have a 1996 GTS, I have no clue what a DLC is)
2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.
Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:
- Have the wrong wire
- Aren't solidly grounded
- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.
Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.
That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
 

Motor City Mad Man

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The key fob on my 96 GTS was hit and miss as far as working or not. Tried reprogramming, fresh batteries, the works. Finally got the keyless-entry module changed out under warranty. It works like a charm now.
 

SteveT

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I have the same problem, one works one does not. I tried a new battery then holding both buttons down, still no dice.

I have a new FOB coming Monday and will try to program it per the instructions above. Jeff, thanks for posting them.
 

Jerry Dobson

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If you don't feel comfortable doing the above, you can also do it with a DRB3. But I guess not that many people have these at home.

Any Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer with one can walk out to the parking lot and program the FOB in a few minutes.
 

SteveT

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I picked up a new FOB today and programed the old and new FOBs using the instructions above. Worked like a charm. Only hard part was getting my big a$$ down under the drivers side dash.

The new fob is smaller and sleeker than the old (97) one, looks a little more up to date.
 

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