Harleyman...I have been very happy using Sears Die-Hard Gold batteries in our Vipers (also non-tracked).
Here are a couple of minor suggestions to help speed the battery change along...from one of my old posts:
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It's not a bad job...goes well if you plan ahead and have tools ready.
Use a 3/4" (or 19mm) socket to remove left rear wheel. Then use 8mm, 11mm, and 10mm sockets to remove fasteners on splash shield in rear of fender well, and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the plastic push pin that holds the battery cover to the splash guard...now disconnect the battery using 5/16" socket, and use a 1/2" socket to remove battery clamp.
Inspect the tray carefully...you will likely see corrosion...if so, neutralize it CAREFULLY by scrubbing with water and baking soda. DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR to clean this out !!!
After the area dries, I usually use a wire brush on an electric drill (wearing goggles and a respirator/face mask) to remove all remaining oxidation caused by the acid and/or rust. I wipe the tray WELL with rags, then allow it to dry. Then, after a couple more wipe-downs with ethyl alcohol to remore moisture, debris, and oils... I coat the tray bottom and sides with Rustoleum primer 2-3 times...and when dry, hit it with a couple of coats of Rustoleum black "engine gloss" even a semi-gloss. I have found that a used pizza box slid right under the battery tray makes a great "paint booth". After this is completely dry, install new battery (I PREFER a 75 series as they ALWAYS fit our various Vipers...and I always use a Sears Die-Hard Gold...noting that the LEAST amout of usage that these batteries have given me is 6.75 years). Then put it back together.
Note: SOME 94's will not start after battery disconnect...so you might wish to try it before installing the covers. If you have troubie...call me...or do a "search".
I do use a 9 volt battery plugged into the cigarette lighter...which maintains the clock and radio settings for a reasonable time.
HAVE FUN...and don't drop your Viper on yourself !!!"
