If you're washing conventionally, you should flood the paint with an open (not spraying) stream with your hose, this will remove 80-90% of the water present. Followed by a leaf blower (if you wish) then pat dry with quality waffle woven microfiber.
I would avoid future visits to a shop that is hesitant to restore headlights. It's about as risk free as you can get in terms of advanced detailing procedures.
Think about how thick the material is you will need to sand down, probably around a million times thicker than most clear coat systems.
Mineral deposits that have etched into the surface will require machine polishing for definitive removal.
There's a big difference between "water spots" and the remnants of the minerals and pollutants that dig their way into your paint/glass by way of sun baking. This explains why acid rain...
I just wanted to know the difference in the products design and work habits. Sorry you viewed it as an attack. I have never used the product you refered to so I am naturally full of questions about it.
Contact Rickrack on Autopia, or truthindetailing.com. He is probably the best in your area.
Here is his latest write up.
Porsche 911 - New Car Prep and Full Frontal Wrap (clear-bra) by Unique Car Care!! - Truth In Detailing Auto Detailing Forum
I used QEW vs. original onr as well. But there have been two upgrades since this initial foul smelling onr, both of which leave a much slicker surface than QEW.
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