If the nutsert is broken off the stanchion, it can be repaired as shown in post #5 here:
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/667516-The-Saga-of-the-Dinged-Up-Dodge?p=3200253&viewfull=1#post3200253
Strength isn't really a concern. The only risk is that sometimes aftermarket glass can have a "wave" in it, causing some distortion. Not all of it does, and even the occasional factory piece has it too. It's more of an annoyance than anything else.
The I-IIs are, without question, Vipers. Even non-car people know one when they see one. The III-V's are always in danger of the uninformed "Nice Vette" remarks.
Unless you're using 304 or 316 stainless, header wrap will rust your pipes away, even if it never gets wet. It traps too much heat in the pipes causing the metal to oxidize faster than normal. Stock pipes are 409 stainless, which will still rust(all be it slower than regular steel).
I've done many a brake job in my day. Unless the rotors are warped or grooved I don't feel that turning is necessary. Even with a little bit of grooving, the new pads will quickly wear down to conform to the rotors. The finish on the rotors doesn't matter much, after a few thousand miles, it...
Under the hood, in the power distribution box next to the battery terminal. See the following thread:
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/667259-Gen-2-owners-with-cooling-issues-step-inside...this-may-help-you.?highlight=fan+relay
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