Got back a few hrs. ago from Chrysler/Dodge dealer in Conway, S.C. The prognosis is a defective ac evaporator part#4708196AB. Had dye & refrigerant installed approx. 1 week ago. Todays prognosis amounts to 1,650.00 bucks , but also includes a new heater core. The tech advisor stated it's about 8hrs. labor. Tech has to take apart console, and is very labor intensive. I was not shown anything in the shop area, only the estimate in the waiting room. Any thoughts folks? Is there something I should be asking from the service advisor? Thanks, Carll
Quick loss of ac refrigerant with my 1994 rt/10
- Thread starter rt10guy
- Start date
Are you sure that the
evaporator is the source of the leak? It is "interesting" just how many times that I have run across that diagnosis (at $1500 to $2500 estimate) only to find that attention to Schrader valves and/or "o" rings were a long lasting cure. In the interect of science, you might ask to be shown their proof of concept.
evaporator is the source of the leak? It is "interesting" just how many times that I have run across that diagnosis (at $1500 to $2500 estimate) only to find that attention to Schrader valves and/or "o" rings were a long lasting cure. In the interect of science, you might ask to be shown their proof of concept.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
I would also wonder how they know that is the evaporator core; and, say, not the O-rings to the expansion valve. I think that is hidden up there in the heater/AC housing with the evaporator.
The issue might be that the labor to get at the expansion valve is the same as to get at the evaporator core out. Then, you are spending $800 ? (8 hours) to remove and reuse 20 year old parts, to replace $1.00 worth of o-rings. They may not want to "chance" that those parts are still good when they go back in, and are still good for many months afterward. Long enough so that if they do fail, you don't automatically blame them. So, they recommend replacing everything so that you definitely have a working system for years to come.
Anyway, that's how I see that their philosophy might go and not be actually intended to deceive you; although, they should have told you all that if they didn't actually know which component is actually leaking.
The issue might be that the labor to get at the expansion valve is the same as to get at the evaporator core out. Then, you are spending $800 ? (8 hours) to remove and reuse 20 year old parts, to replace $1.00 worth of o-rings. They may not want to "chance" that those parts are still good when they go back in, and are still good for many months afterward. Long enough so that if they do fail, you don't automatically blame them. So, they recommend replacing everything so that you definitely have a working system for years to come.
Anyway, that's how I see that their philosophy might go and not be actually intended to deceive you; although, they should have told you all that if they didn't actually know which component is actually leaking.
I couldn't agree with you more. The service mgr. came out to the waiting room and broke the bad news, nothing else. I had them place dye and recharge a week ago and yesterday, which was the first day I had an opportunity to check for ac it was non existent. Should I bring the car to an independent ac shop, have the dealer show me, not sure what to do. However. the car has 14k & honestly don't drive it much. I know the no ****e sherlock line, lol. Which reenforces your thinking of hardened o rings. I have an authentic 1994 Chrysler service manual and looking at sections 24-24 through 24-29 it looks pretty labor intensive to replace the evaporator/heater core. My plan is up early tmrw and have a serious discussion with the serv. mgr. All advice and coaching is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve-Indy
On a positive note, I have seen quite a few of these "diagnoses" that were supplied by the service advisor which were later downgraded to lesser issues by good, honest, hard working techs. Good luck.
Steve, I'll know more tmrw. That said I believe the serv. mgr. was basically parroting what the tech came up with. I sat in the waiting room for 2.5 hrs when the mgr. came out with the tech's diagnosis/opinion/guess? My thinking it's a/c so not a immediate crisis even though I'm in Conway, S.C. = 95 degrees + every day this time of year. Thanks for your input and anything you come up with is greatly appreciated. Carl
You could always consult Tom Sessions in NC...he is solid and works on lots of Vipers in both S C and NC.
Appreciate that Steve. Will digest the dealerships rap tmrw and will absolutely pick Mr. Sessions brain for further input. Would you mind giving me his email, phone #, any way to contact him. If your uncomfortable with that scenario my # is 609-457-0070. Email is [email protected]. Never got rid of my ole Jersey #,lol. I want to figure this out without being ripped off. If it turns out to be an evaporator then so be it, however, I want it to be all fair & square. Thanks, Carl
Sent you Tom's info and my number.
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Ever touch the compressor while it's running? It's hotter than any exhaust pipe you'll brush against. Statistically, the o-rings at the compressor are the ones most likely to fail due to the heat. May I suggest you replace those (yes, remove the hoses, replace the little green o-rings, re-attach hoses, don't evacuate, just charge with a can of r-134a) and see what happens? If it holds the charge and blows OK cold, you have your answer. Then you could go to the AC shop, have them evacuate it and replace the r-134a and you would be fine.
R-134a is about three times the density of air, so assuming there is no residual pressure in your system, pretend it's full of water. Hold the tubes "up" and/or be ready to put a plug over the open ends and you won't have air entering the system. The issue of moisture entering the system when you are not removing/replacing a component is minimal and that's what the dryer is for. I've done this on my previous Viper and an Intrepid and it worked to perfection. Certainly the cost of o-rings and two cans of r-134a is cheap compared to the original estimate.
R-134a is about three times the density of air, so assuming there is no residual pressure in your system, pretend it's full of water. Hold the tubes "up" and/or be ready to put a plug over the open ends and you won't have air entering the system. The issue of moisture entering the system when you are not removing/replacing a component is minimal and that's what the dryer is for. I've done this on my previous Viper and an Intrepid and it worked to perfection. Certainly the cost of o-rings and two cans of r-134a is cheap compared to the original estimate.
Any update ??
