A cheap mechanical (capillary) gauge can be purchased for $20 and easily temporarily plumbed into the sender or gauge port on the block. I've done this to validate the accuracy (actually inaccuracy) of the dash oil pressure guage. This will give you a real oil pressure reading that you can...
As a contrarian, I'd only suggest that the plastic door is right above the cat and heat soak after the run is when max temp on the door would be reached. Perhaps no issue, but something to be aware of.
I can't imagine aluminum getting soft via heat and not having the paint burn. Something is still amiss.... A infrared temp gun ($49.00 or less on Ebay) would at least provide an accurate temp number. Also agree that rotten egg smell is not normal and might indicate other issues.
Good Luck
If your sill is soft, it's seriously corroded and should be removed for investigation and repair. They are very expensive and every effort should be made to salvage them. The early insulation holds water and will greatly aid in inner sill corrosion.
Temps on a normal Viper's external sill...
Re: Is this safe? \'96 GTS + 5yr old child in front facing child seat +
While pulling the fuses should work (not positive), I have been told that while installing or pulling them you have to be careful not to have anyone in the seat as even a static charge generating by manipulating the fuses...
You can use the new key fob as long as it's for a Viper.
I suspect that you're not getting good contact between the female plug and ground. Thread a small screw into the plug and use alligator clips on the screw and frame.
Agree with Paul, real is better.
I did buy a set cheap off EBAY and while they might help clarify a particular issue, they are no substitute for the OEM manuals.
I would guess that 10 years after they were produced (assuming they have 10k+ miles) 99% of both 1996 & 1997 Vipers had whatever issues they were going to have and those issues were long since resolved. Check the service history and verify.
For example, I've had the timing cover leak (oil...
Another vote for the Vacula. I've never been able to get the Motive system to seal properly on my master. Once even had fluid leaking all over! Vacula is much safer IMO.
Re: Help I Need a \'97 pcm
If you mean me, no, I have an extra EEM not PCM.
Either way though, the key phrase is: "that they want to part with"
You know me well enough to know that I never part with anything Viper!
This past spring I replaced my original OEM MXX3's (18,000 miles) with "New" last production (late 1998 as I remember) MXX3's. Stored properly, felt soft as compared to the old rocks and fortunately made a world of difference traction wise. I still wish though that I was a little less of a Boy...
I have a friend with a repair shop that accepts the old coolant.
My "refresh coolant flush" (not, oh crap! corrosion flush) includes the following:
Turn heater on full. Drain rad, block, expansion tank and overflow bottle. Refill same with distilled water, burp air out of upper hose a bit...
Thanks to several conversations with Tom I switched all my cars to Dex-Cool 5+ years ago, including my Viper. Had to change hoses on one and a thermostat on another and in both cases the inards looked fantastic. I'm a beliver.
Reminder - Shorty OEM headers add zero power vs stock cast iron on GENII engines. Dyno proven.
Might make you feel better though.
Weight savings is the reason.
Tom is right, you have aftermarket.
1997 was cast iron. 1998+ was tubular, but without any welds in the pipe. Your's has one noticable in the picture hence aftermarket. Seems like stock heat shields though somewhat twisted up to accommodate your header.
Time for wires.....
I wrote what you are looking for a few years back. Click on the link below and you'll have my version 4 pdf file. Either left click and view / print, or right click and choose "save as" to store a copy on your hard drive. V4 includes a newer and preferred mounting method.
PDF Download of...
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