I personally don't think that's the real reason. It's hidden mainly for aesthetics as there has neven been a truly "visible" key hole on a Viper for any generation. Some of us who owned Gen. I's still remember the days of opening a door - especially with V-Mania's or the factory side curtains...
You can save more $$$ by performing the labor yourself. Very easy to do as all you have to do is remove two (2) allen bolts on each caliper, then remove the rotors. Same thing for the rears with the exception of loosening the lower E-brake bolt to swing the E-brake caliper out of the way...
Grundy here as well. $700 per year. I was told "limited use" includes occasional dinner outtings etc. (assuming the car is parked in a safe and secure area such a valet space and not on the street where it can't be vandalized or stolen). Not to be driven to a shopping mall, supermarket, etc...
That's because KBB, NADA, Edmunds, etc. are only GUIDES that are based on standard depreciation and not true market value. That comes from what others are paying based on supply and demand.
I was wondering the same thing being that there is only one line from the fluid reservoir meaning no return line. Also, the shop procedure requires bleeding at the slave cylinder (which is the reason my local dealership charges $200).
Just wondering as I will need to do this within the next...
I don't think so. The common issue with the Gen III is oil stavation due to tracking which was already discussed. I personally haven't heard of many connecting rod failures on Gen III engines. Your data point, considering your car had over 50k miles when you acquired it, may be lacking some...
Potential oiling issues on the Gen III as was previously mentoned only if you track the car. Gen III has a more reliable engine. This is from a guy who has owned both (and one who had to go through the paper head gasket saga on his Gen I).
Simply ask for retail and negotiate from there. Get the retail value of your car from sites such as the classifieds on this forum, Autotrader, Ebay, etc. For a car (McLaren or Ferrari) with a relatively high margin (sales price over invoice), there usually a little more wiggle room unless...
I don't think that's what he meant. He was only referencing to a single personal experience. And in ecomonic terms, it can work that way if the demand is high and the supply is low (or the price elasticity of demand).
The installation instructions found on the Corsa site will provide the rough dimensions for tip positioning. Then as was previously mentioned, you'll need to do a few "takes" with the sills to get it just right. You also may want to run though at least one heat cycle (with the sills off)...
The '96 RT/10 was not a Commemorative Edition. It didn't have any special badging, interior, shift console plate/sticker, etc. I had one and sold it back in 2004 right before purchasing my first Gen. III. If I recall correctly, there were about 224 built (maybe 324).
If your PS fluid level is low and the smell is burnt PS fluid, the next thing to do is find the source of the leak. A few of us who owned Gen I/II's still remember reading posts where a couple of cars that actually caught on fire due to loose PS reservoir caps.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.