I have the Forgeline SX3-R Comp. (VRL) and they fit without rubbing anything on the front (no spacers required). I had to install the Archer e-brake cable spacer in the rear.
Grinding will probably work. I used the Archer relo kit myself, but actually put a Forgeline on before installing the Archer kit just to check the "before" fit. Sure enough, the cable spacer touched the barrel, but just barely.
1. He'll want/need the Autoform roll bar to get on the track. It's less expensive then the hard top, provides more protection, and in the case of some tracks and car clubs, the hard top is not an acceptable alternative to the roll bar.
2. Comp coup oil pan.
3. As Chuck points out, seat...
Non-instructor passengers are allowed at Viper Days? Cool! I was only aware of Chin Motorsports and the VIR Club allowing non-instructor passengers. I like taking old friends and family along, as well as the new friends I meet at the track. It's fun to share the experience, even if it does...
When you first get back from the track, the rotors are sufficiently coated that the BM3s don't squeak at all at first. But after a couple days of street driving, the coating wears off and the BM3s squeak like crazy (at least for me). In addition to the noise, I understand that BM3s are hard on...
The pedals are designed (sort of) for heel-toe shifting. It's a good thing that they are close together for this reason. When braking, try rolling your foot to the left (move your knee to the left) and it shouldn't depress the gas, even if your foot is overlapping the throttle.
ROFL! I just...
To what class are you referring? That's a far cry from the price for the three-day intro to racing school.
Great advise (and good for bedding those new brakes too)!
Gen III Quaife is unique for Gen III, I believe.
No street issues with my suggested mods, although obviously exhaust mods can be pretty unpopular with the neighbors. :curse:
It seems to me that the must-haves are as follows:
1. Autoform Real roll bars (because safety is always easy to justify and sell at home, hehe).
2. NWE Seat-lowering Lowering Kit (because at 5'9" I was looking thorough the top of the windshield and in a roll over this is a safety issue...
Hard to say, but it could have easily been a snap-throttle oversteer. That is, if you were pushing/under load when you started the turn and then jumped off the throttle, the back end will simply fly out even before you touch the brakes. We did this intentional spin in Skippy class just to...
For what it's worth, I think some tracks will not let you wear an open-face helmet if you have a convertible and the top is down. I'm not 100% on this, since I have a closed face and thus haven't paid too much attention to the open-face rules and restrictions.
This thread it morphing.
Our own Gary Almond of www.almondexotictransports.com recommended to me the R-hooks and the slots. Janni agrees as well based on lots and lots of experience (see the thread link in my previous post above). I've only used the R-hooks and slots, also for thousands of miles, with no problems...
Ah, tie-down talk again. Here's some more info on the matter:
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=533806&Forum=UBB21&Words=r-hook&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=250&Old=allposts&Main=533473&Search=true#Post533806
I'm not one to skimp, but I would like to know (if anyone knows) if there is some performance reason that I should avoid putting on pads of different thickness. I'm not looking for the easy way out, I just want to have an understanding of all the issues. That was my second question above. If...
Correct, the stock chip, at least without modification, does not work with my hear work and cam. And sure enough, Sean Roe provided a plan. I'll report back on this issue later. Thanks for your help!
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