Why would I use any part or concept from your failed attempt at designing that splitter? My design will use none of those concepts of yours as proven by previously published pictures of mine, and your continued false claims about me and what I am doing with mine should be removed from this site...
Go with a temperature that the car is tuned to run with. Likely, that is not 170.
Like most things, there's a practical limit to bigger is better. Um, I mean colder is better. Unfortunately, redneck engineering sometimes supersedes actual engineering.
You don't need a booster. But buy one, and then bill all the people that think pedal fade = booster issues.
All the booster does is alter the force required. Not the ultimate distance the pedal travels. You are displacing a non compressible fluid. The only reason the distance the pedal...
The brake booster going bad will not change the pedal travel. Just the force. The master cylinder however will if it is bypassing internally. Heat could be amplifying the problem once it heat soaks from under hood temps rising in traffic.
On the clunking, check your diff mounts, axle hub...
I used a Roe 3-pass radiator and it lasted a few months. Sent it for warranty and the epoxy repair lasted something like a few days. Went through 2 Ron Davis units, one of which leaked new out of the box. I'm currently using a Howe AKA the old Alan's Performance. Matter of fact I like them...
50hp on an exhaust upgrade does sound a little spicy, but it may be so.
One thing that always gets my attention on these hp comparison tests - the before and after mods - is the lack of true statistical validity to them. Even if there was a dyno involved, I, as a person who deals with matters...
+1 on the exhaust mods being light on numbers. When I went from a Corsa catback with rear delete, to Belangers h/f cats and 3" side exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers (plus an SCT email tune), I gained about 10 hp. That was 2 completely different dynos, so realistically it could have been 20 hp...
That is not a sign of anything aftermarket, but instead, a belt that has the diagonal grooves that are engineered to remove water quickly from the friction surfaces should you drive in wet conditions.
The mark on the tach you are probably calling 500 is actually 750. Look at it again. The mark almost to the bottom is 500. The one below that is 250. And the final mark is 0.
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