Mine did that. It was the fuel pump going bad. Could also be your fuses or relay. Start by checking those. My pump would intermittently cut out. it was a pain trying to prove it was bad so I could get it fixed under warranty.
You might want to check your coolant recovery tank cap to see if its opening up at 16 psi (or whatever they're supposed to release at). If the pressure got too high it could push a hose off. Mine starting leaking at the top hose because of this.
Re: Chemists, Engineers, Dentists, and Flunkies like me look in here pleas
Is he gullible? Are you a good BS'er Take two identical, small bottles. Fill them with gasoline. Make up some chemical-sounding name and label the bottles. Tell him that it's a harmless fuel additive but if he is...
Yes, it will throw a code, it's only an emissions problem so it won't interfere with driving the car. An OBD II reader can reset it but I think I read somewhere that if you replace the cap and go through six or so cold starts the code will reset itself...not sure about that.
Re: Wheels...if you think we had a 5 bolt pattern lug nut set....we would s
Five bolts may not be strong enough for the kind of fun we have with these cars!
Re: FACTORY REP FROM DODGE SAYS ALL VIPERS RUN HOT! HE SAYS 260 DEGREES IS
It might not be all that bad. Could be they dropped a nut or bolt into a water passage when it was rebuilt and they can get it out. From your previous posts it seems this all started after the Arrow rebuild. How could...
The heavy gauge wire running from the Roe relay that's tapped into the harness is the +12V line to the fan. Apply 12V to that. If the fan goes on then it's your stock fan relay and either the Roe relay or the Roe switch that's bad. If not, it probably has to be the fan motor.
I had the same problem with the Roe cap. The anode was getting caught up in a ridge inside the coolant tank and it was pulling on the relief valve and holding it open all of the time. As soon as the coolant started to expand it would just flow out of the cap into the front bottle. Shorten the...
Re: VIPER OVERHEATS! ANYONE ELSE HAVE OVERHEATING PROBLEMS? HOW TO FIX?
If everything outside of the block has been checked it's probably something inside. Blocked or restricted water passage?
If it weren't for the fact that you said it ran fine for a while after the rebuild, but then went back to running hot, I would guess that you have a restricted passage(s) in the block. Maybe there's some way a tech. can check for flow resistance, similar to flow benching heads?
Good question. I don't have my manuals with me right now but I think there is another book which covers diagnostics. That has some information you can glean off of it. It's just a series of flowcharts for testing things...checking voltages, pressures, etc. (It may be in the shop manual, can't...
I assume the sensor can't be used instead of the stock O2's..or is there a way to connect this to the engine computer? Will the unit read two sensors so that you could look at both banks?
Even at 1 amp of current (way more than the coil produces) your voltage drop difference between the two types of wires is about 100 volts. I'm not exactly sure of the numbers but your coils are putting out voltages of at least 10,000 V or more. You would have to have wires with resistances on...
Not really (unless your resistance is huge). The coils are putting out big voltages at low currents so the voltage drop across the wires is pretty insignificant.
The manual for my '99 shows that the only relay in the circuit is the fuel pump relay in the trunk. I don't know why the relay is shutting off after a few seconds. Pull the relay and short out the pins, you now have a direct circuit (except for the fuse)to the pump. Then check the power at the...
If you have a shop manual you can look up the relay pins which actually switch the power to the pump. Pull the relay and short those two pins, if the pump starts up then you know that either the relay is bad or your alarm circuit is disabling the relay, otherwise it's the pump or the wiring to...
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