I have the eibachs on my car and have driven it extensively. Eventually you can gauge where you can and can't go without scraping. My problem is that the car does pretty well until the tires have worn about 1/2" way, after than pretty much no speed bump is safe. I rub the bolts on the...
The fan itself could be bad. You can use a piece of wire to jumper across the relay socket to start the fan in low and high speed. Don't do it unless you are comfortable doing that kind of thing.
The high speed fan should come on before the temperature pegs the meter.
One of those relays is the radiator fan low/high speed relay. Another is for the starter. I can't remember what the other is for. The high speed fan side of that relay is the one that will also work for the starter. So...
I daily drove for 14 years (50K miles on my 94 (RIP) and 114K on my 01). The 01 is finally taking a break in the garage. There's nothing wrong with daily driving one, but the attention does get old and they are expensive to use as a daily driver. I'm enjoying the incognito benefits of a pt...
Changing the cam is much, much more work than doing the heads swap, but it will give you lots more quality time with your car. Unless you are doing a force induction system in the future, there is not going to be a lot of advantage to doing any fuel work. I don't ever remember reading about...
I took the schrader valve out of mine when it started leaking and replaced it with a brass plug. No more leaks. Seriously, you only need the plug to check fuel pressure. You can always screw it back in if you need to do a pressure check.
At low rpms my '94 (headers, no cats & 3" Borla pipes) sounded like a UPS truck. The telling point was one day my daughter was waiting for me to pick her up and told the teacher I just drove up because she heard my car. Went outside and there was a UPS truck :) I had also had drive thru...
It was around 530RWHP/550RWTQ on the dyno I used. I could have gone with a more agressive cam, but as it was my daily driver I really didn't want to rattle my teeth loose. It is a smooth with the mods as it was stock.
I'll try to remember all of the mods :)
Stryker Heads (some of the first) with the Jesel Rockers
908 Cam
Belanger Headers
High Flow Cats
Corsa 3" Cat Back
Aluminum Flywheel
K&Ns
Smooth Tubes
Cragin ECU flash
Eibachs
5 pt harnesses
Factory Hard & soft tops
170 deg thermostat
I did most of the...
It is a pretty common problem. If its just with starting then it most probably is the check valve. And that is going to be the only real issue. You can turn the key to the on position and let it sit there for a couple of seconds to charge the lines when the fuel pump turn on and it will start...
I would hate to put it back to stock, but maybe that is the only way. Unless I found someone who really wanted to drive a fairly modified Viper and not worry about it so much. Time to put on my thinking cap...
I always said that I would sell my viper if it was just sitting in the garage and it's been sitting there for a year now. Mostly attracting dust. Anyway, it's an 01 RT and it has 113K miles on it. It's in good shape and still runs very strong, but like anything used for 11 years as a daily...
6200 to 6300 with the stock CPU. I did it quite a bit in the Gen 1 I had. Doing it going up through the gears (drag racing or road racing is when I would do it) is not nearly as bad as missing a downshift and hitting 1st instead of 3rd. That is where you can really do damage.
I didn't like the Gen I OEM shift knob and replaced it with an MGW. I like the OEM one in my 2001 better than the MQW. I shortened it as well by taking out the shock isolator and bolting it directly to the shifter.
Another good thing found due to cars driven at the track. At least originally, the issues were seen on car extensively tracked.
If you don't have the recall done as yet, you can look for cracks in the welds by where the recall plates are attached.
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