Enclosed trailers

[Photog1]

Does anyone have any info on one car enclosed trailers?

 

[FrankBarba]

First what are you towing with? Once this is figured out, more help can come your way.

 

[Fast Freddy]

just bought a single car enclosed trailer today as a matter of fact. go to www.trailex.com > they are made in ohio. they will be delivering mine to the barrett jackson auto auction next month in scottsdale, arizona. i am gonna fill mine with a 2006 ford GT.

 

[Photog1]

First what are you towing with? Once this is figured out, more help can come your way.

Probably with my Denali but I may have to trade my Dakota for a full size Dodge Ram and use that. Still in the thinking stages.

 

[Racer Robbie]

Look into Featherlite Trailers. http://www.featherlitetrailers.com/index2.cfm?CFID=27381272&CFTOKEN=10106294

This is a dealer site, I do not know him,but it shows all the trailers

 

[Ron Hickey]

A regular, non-aluminum enclosed trailer is probably a little too much for a Dakota. Even with a 1/2 ton Ram you'll need to use an equalizer hitch. An aluminum trailer like the Trailex and Featherlite will save you some weight, but, of course, they cost considerably more. When towing, weight is not the only issue -- enclosed trailers push a lot of wind and can be a lot of fun when a semi passes. One of the cheapest trailers you can buy is a Haulmark Thrifty Hauler -- a 24-ft model should be around $7000 new. Of course, that's a stripped down trailer, but it is transportation. If you want something fancier with real nice inside siding and floor, and some other options, you're approaching $15000 and up. I've seen the Trailex at Viper Days, and they are real nice. The lighter weight of the aluminum trailers make them easier to tow, and you can also get a V front end to cut down on wind resistance. If you're hauling a Viper, you need to make sure whatever you buy will accommodate the low Viper approach angle, and that you'll be able to get out of the car once you drive it into the trailer. (A side access door is nice)

 

[rblong]

I have been looking quite a while and if your not looking for frills, or want to start basic and dress the interior yourself (as I do)you can get for mid 5K with dual 5K axles - that is 20-24 feet unit. I believe the 5K axles are a must since by the time you time you throw in some gear and a car a 7000 GVW trailer is about at it's max.

 

[Venom 1000TT]

Check out mine for sale. I had it posted on this board but it mysteriously disappeard.
http://www.[*****]/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1307&sort=2&cat=6&page=1

 

[Venom 1000TT]

I just reposted it here on the classifieds under "enclosed trailers". I see the other link isn't working.

 

[Kala]

I bought a 20' Haulmark last year on e bay for less than 5k... Picked it up in AZ. I used oilbased primer on the wood interior and bought a trailer liner for the floor...
I tow it with a 99 Dodge 3/4 ton- diesel.

Works great.

heres a couple of them listed on E bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Haulmark-...069758640QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-HAUL...065875707QQrdZ1

 

[Jay Lopez]

Does anyone have any info on one car enclosed trailers?

I bought a 24 foot enclosed Wells Cargo about 5 years ago. It's been a great trailer. While I was researching, I ran across an important point to consider. The Viper doors are very close to the ground, so if you want to open the driver's door after you drive it up into the trailer, you have to do some careful measurements.

1. The inner fender well of the trailer is often too high to open the Viper door at all.

2. Most trailers have a door on that driver's side wall so that cars can indeed open a door from within the trailer, but those doors are placed too far forward to be useful to the Viper door (assuming it can clear the inner fender well).

There is a company that makes a enclosed trailer that is specifically built to address these points for the Viper, but I can't remember their name. They have an advertisement that runs in the Viper magazine every month.

I decided I could live with climbing out the window after I pulled it up into the trailer. It's a pain, but can be done. I ended up adding a winch, mounted off center of the trailer, so that I can pull the Viper into the trailer by using the tow hook mounted on the driver's side front bumper ( Archer Racing Tow Hook Link).

Another point to consider is the how close the Viper bumper is to the ground. You have to make sure the trailer has a dove-tail configuration, meaning it has an additional slope down inside the trailer after the floor goes past the trailer axle. This will help with cars that are very close to the ground. Even with the dove-tail and a small ramp extension, I still have to use wood blocks to help decrease the angle of the trailer door when I'm driving up it. There are longer aluminum trailer ramps that you can buy instead like the ones from Pit Pal (link ).