Hello Everyone. Just got a 08 vert with 2300 miles on it. I would like to change the brake and clutch fluid myself. I am going to buy a mightyvac so I can do it myself. I know there are two bleed valves on each caliper. My car has ABS. Do I need to depressurize the ABS before I flush the fluid? I have flushed fluid before on conventional non abs cars, but I am a bit nervous on the viper. Also, do I **** out as much fluid from the master cylinder first so I dont have to waste as much time flushing the old? Thanks!
Gen 4 (2008)Brake/Clutch flush
- Thread starter apeas2
- Start date
Boxer12
Enthusiast
With the Mightvac you don't need to do any vacuuming, just run about a bottle of fluid through it. Use Motul RBF600 if you can get it. If you have a helper, its easy to have someone step on the brake to pump the fluid through as you bleed the brakes.
"If you have a helper, its easy to have someone step on the brake to pump the fluid through as you bleed the brakes
'.
I thought my using the mityvac one person bleeder, I dont need a helper to stomp on the brakes. Also, do I need to do anything different because of the ABS?
'.
I thought my using the mityvac one person bleeder, I dont need a helper to stomp on the brakes. Also, do I need to do anything different because of the ABS?
I thought by using the mityvac one person bleeder, I don't need a helper to stomp on the brakes. Also, do I need to do anything different because of the ABS?
Steve M
Enthusiast
Yes, **** the old fluid out of the reservoir and refill before bleeding. As for doing anything with the ABS, there's nothing you can do without the appropriate scan tool, so just bleed the brakes like you normally would on a non-ABS car. Many will say that you need to cycle the ABS module to do the procedure properly, but it can be done without that step provided you haven't introduced any air into the system. I use a pressure bleeder that hooks up to the master cylinder reservoir, and didn't have any problems bleeding the brakes after installing new calipers just bleeding the normal way (no cycling the ABS module).
Do the same for the clutch fluid (**** the old fluid out and refill before bleeding). Hopefully a Mityvac will be a little less messy than normal bleeding on that one, because the normal bleed procedure was messy.
You'll need an 11mm wrench for the bleeder screws (brakes and clutch).
Do the same for the clutch fluid (**** the old fluid out and refill before bleeding). Hopefully a Mityvac will be a little less messy than normal bleeding on that one, because the normal bleed procedure was messy.
You'll need an 11mm wrench for the bleeder screws (brakes and clutch).
Allan
Enthusiast
I use the Mightyvac on my car. I also empty the master cylinder reservoir first with a battery filler bulb. (looks like a turkey baster)
No need to worry about the ABS unless you get air in the system by not refilling the master cylinder while bleeding.
I have a full-function scan tool, and I do the 'automated bleed' with it periodically ( just because I can ), and the brakes work the same weather I do that or not.
The main reason I do the automated bleed is to make sure all the electric/hydraulic portion of the ABS is working properly.
The scan tool runs the pump motor, cycles all the solenoids, opens and closes all the dump valves, and monitors the system for any malfunctions.
-just for my own piece of mind that it all works the way it's supposed to.
No need to worry about the ABS unless you get air in the system by not refilling the master cylinder while bleeding.
I have a full-function scan tool, and I do the 'automated bleed' with it periodically ( just because I can ), and the brakes work the same weather I do that or not.
The main reason I do the automated bleed is to make sure all the electric/hydraulic portion of the ABS is working properly.
The scan tool runs the pump motor, cycles all the solenoids, opens and closes all the dump valves, and monitors the system for any malfunctions.
-just for my own piece of mind that it all works the way it's supposed to.
Allan
Enthusiast
............Oh yeah, for my clutch fluid, I have been just using the battery filler bulb to **** the fluid out of the reservoir, and then I just fill it back up with DOT-4. I have never opened the bleeder screw on my car. -never had to, yet.
I do this after every track day, as the fluid get dark real quick.
I have not had any clutch issues in 52,000 miles of 'balls to the wall' driving.
I know it would be better to occasionally bleed at the slave cyl and flush the whole system, but while what I'm doing has kept me trouble-free, it's hard for me to change my method now.
I do this after every track day, as the fluid get dark real quick.
I have not had any clutch issues in 52,000 miles of 'balls to the wall' driving.
I know it would be better to occasionally bleed at the slave cyl and flush the whole system, but while what I'm doing has kept me trouble-free, it's hard for me to change my method now.
SSGViper
Enthusiast
Good info. Is there a certain order to bleed/flush each brake such as passenger rear first, driver rear second, etc?
Allan
Enthusiast
The general practice is to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (hydraulically) and work your way forward.
Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Awesome, thanks EVERYONE for chiming in. Can't wait to flush brakes and clutch next weekend. I need to know about coolant so please check my next thread.
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