Hey Gang, blew out my slave cylinder I think, any help?

[genXgts]

After pushing my car 4 miles home from a previous post, hats off to Mike Adams for stopping by and checking things out on his way home from some go-kart action in Windsor, thanks Mike, a big help.

Car runs fine, and gears all appear normal, the bolts in a tin can sounds only on the releasing the clutch, about halfway thru the travel, and the car still moves in gear.

Mike is near certain I popped the slave cylinder and after talking with the Wizard, he says it might be okay to bolt back on once I drop the tranny.

Any input on if the tranny is tricky to drop or not, if anyone else has ever had this problem. This is the same T56 that the SS and WS6 F body guys run correct? Meaning if I get a local buddy or two that have experience dropping their T56 it should be an easy R&R? Heck, the exhaust can stay by the looks of it, one benefit of torched side sills if nothing else!!!haha

Moved in the last 2 weeks and having severe problems getting online, I'm at my parents for a Sunday meal grab, I mean quality time with the parents.

Thanks for any input, Mike if you read this I'm still game for something in the next month, off for three weeks after this coming week. Assuming I get this thing back together I am in. Buddy just picked up a new C5 and was talking of a trip to Montreal in it, thinking I could drive mine up as well and hook up at your end, who knows. I'll keep in touch.

back to my regular daily musings when I am back online,

thanks,

 

[MHQC]

Mike if you read this I'm still game for something in the next month, off for three weeks after this coming week. Assuming I get this thing back together I am in. Buddy just picked up a new C5 and was talking of a trip to Montreal in it, thinking I could drive mine up as well and hook up at your end, who knows. I'll keep in touch.

Wild man Ryan, glad to hear your tranny is going to be a sort of easy fix. I thought about your car on my last pass on the 1/4 mile (ran a 12,267 today )at the drag strip up here. I am taking the last week of July off and first of August. You name the place and I am there. If you want to hook up in Montreal; by all means. There are all kinds of "strips" up here, filled with only the finest Quebec women .

Ryan, if you want I could fax off the pages for the tranny removal to you if you would like, or I could take a couple of pictures and send them to you via e-mail. There is only about 6 steps. Let me know.

Any Molson Dry stories??? You are killing me man!

 

[Snake Bitten]

Ryan...Now is aluminum flywheel time too...while you're there...

 

[Jack B]

GenXGts:

The trans weighs 135 lbs, you need a transmission jack. You shouldn't have to drop the the trans all the way down to remove the slave cylinder. In some cars the hard part is dropping the trans out of the tunnel, it is tucked in tight. Drop it down a few inches and push it back that should give you enough room to remove the slave cylinder. The input shaft has to clear the plane of the bell housing. Also make sure you have the tool to remove the hydraulic line. Either keep the drive shaft inserted or drain and refill so that you don't loose the fluid. It is expensive and in some cases hard to get.

 

[ceieio]

After pushing my car 4 miles home from a previous post, hats off to Mike Adams for stopping by and checking things out on his way home from some go-kart action in Windsor, thanks Mike, a big help.

Car runs fine, and gears all appear normal, the bolts in a tin can sounds only on the releasing the clutch, about halfway thru the travel, and the car still moves in gear.

Mike is near certain I popped the slave cylinder and after talking with the Wizard, he says it might be okay to bolt back on once I drop the tranny.

Any input on if the tranny is tricky to drop or not, if anyone else has ever had this problem. This is the same T56 that the SS and WS6 F body guys run correct? Meaning if I get a local buddy or two that have experience dropping their T56 it should be an easy R&R? Heck, the exhaust can stay by the looks of it, one benefit of torched side sills if nothing else!!!haha

Moved in the last 2 weeks and having severe problems getting online, I'm at my parents for a Sunday meal grab, I mean quality time with the parents.

Thanks for any input, Mike if you read this I'm still game for something in the next month, off for three weeks after this coming week. Assuming I get this thing back together I am in. Buddy just picked up a new C5 and was talking of a trip to Montreal in it, thinking I could drive mine up as well and hook up at your end, who knows. I'll keep in touch.

back to my regular daily musings when I am back online,

thanks,

Ryan - hard to tell from this, but two other thought come to mind in the clutch assembly if it is not the slave cylinder. First is a broken pressure plate. I have broke a few in my day (not on a Viper) from throwing some monster power shifts. Had the exact same kind of gig as you describe here on my '70 429 SCJ. Turned out I had cracked the pressure plate in two.

Another one was blowing the shock mounts out of the clutch disk itself. This I did on a 1.9L Opel I was campaigning. (Come to think of it I also broke the pressure plate in that car too...)

Craig

 

[genXgts]

Thanks for the help Mike, Gerald, Jack and Craig.

Interesting note on leaving the driveshaft in place to save the fluid Jack, so there is enough wiggle room to get at the slave with the shaft still in?

Thinking I should completely drop the thing and get a good look at the entire assembly and see what needs replacing.

I see new clutches go on ebay for under 200 bucks and was quoted over 500 here for the same thing, nice.

Tranny shop here swears it to be the pressure plate blowout as you describe Craig, guess I gotta get busy and drop it.

thanks, any tidbits on tranny removal I am all ears, the manual is pretty vauge as in. Step 1 raise car in air. Step 2 remove transmission.

Does anyone know about inteior shifter removal prior to the drop? More than just the knob? I swear Mike Adams was mentioning that when he was looking at it?

 

[Jack B]

GenXgts:

Some quick comments:

1. The fit into the tunnel is tight. You need a lot of wiggle room. To drop it you have to rotate and angle back. This means draining the fluid.

2. It is 135 lb, you need a trans jack.

3. To get the top trans bolts, a 24" extension is handy.

4. Have the ability to simultaneously support both the engine and drop the trans. You don't want to leave the engine unsupported.

5. Order the fluid ahead of time, it is not always easy to get.

6. As mentioned previously, get the tool for the release of the hydraulics. It is not impossible without, however, it sure makes it easy.

7. Order the driveshaft universal straps and bolts. It is not a bad idea to buy some extras. Unitrax is a good source for these.

8. I don't think you have to remove the top shiter plate, however, I feel it gives you that additional wiggle room and makes the drop easier.

You might want to put on a drive shaft strap while you are at this point. Some NHRA strips require it. There is a new supplier on the main board that offer a slick setup and it is not expensive.

 

[genXgts]

Jack, thanks alot for the tips, can't beat advice from a been there, done that guy!

Thanks again,

I will drop it right out and take a good look at what needs to be replaced and figure 200 for a clutch for a job I will not be wanting to do anytime soon is a good investment regardless of how the clutch looks upon inspection!