Lift advice

[BigBadViper]

I know there are a ton of threads on different lifts available, but I am going to start a new one.

I am looking for a 4 post lift, possibly with castors on there. I want it to be easy for a lowered Viper to get up on there. I want something that goes up and down fairly quickly I don't want to have to wait a month for it to get all the way to the top. I then want to get those jacks on each side to where I could push a button and it would raise it up to pick it up from the frame rails to where I could do work on the wheels. My ceilings are about 12ft tall or so.

I have been looking at some 9000lb Bendpaks, and saw a 14000 lb on craigslist for $2000.

Can you guys give your opinions on what is good, what is bad, what to stay away from?

Thanks.

 

[Wayne64SS]

Mohawk is the last lift you'll ever buy. Slightly overkill for such light duty, but every time I put something up on my A7 I know I don't have to worry.

 

[hou99gts]

You'll want a 220V motor if you want it to be fast, 110V are slow in comparison. You'll need to add a 220V plug in your garage if you don't already have one.

 

[BigBadViper]

You'll want a 220V motor if you want it to be fast, 110V are slow in comparison. You'll need to add a 220V plug in your garage if you don't already have one.

I wouldn't mind wiring up a 220V if it makes a difference. Is it a big difference?

 

[hou99gts]

I wouldn't mind wiring up a 220V if it makes a difference. Is it a big difference?

I think the 220V is about 2x as fast. I have a 110V and don't mind the speed, I would guess about a minute or a litle more to lift it (but I have not timed it before). Going down is fast, regardless of the motor.

 

[01sapphirebob]

I went with a Back Yard Buddy. Made right here in the U.S.A. and they offer everything you are looking for. Reference this thread for a lot of good info.

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/618164-car-lift-for-my-garage?highlight=post+lift+garage

 

[CEJ]

+1 on the 220V. Your garage should have plenty of space in the panel box to have a 220V breaker installed, and the wiring is very simple.

Look for a lift that has a good warranty and local support and service. Are you looking to have it bolted to the floor? Do you know if your concrete floor is 3,000 or 5,000 psi concrete?

Regardless, you need a lift. I'll bring the beer over if you let me borrow the lift now and again to work on my RT/10.

Regards,
Craig

 

[SSGSNAKE]

Make sure you buy a lift made in the USA.

 

[Matt M PA]

I really did alot of homework before making my decision. My decision was based on a few things that I thought were important. In no particular order....

1. American Lift Institute rated. This is in independent organization that will (or won't) certify lifts for safety reasons. It's based partly on safety features, construction, etc. I'm sure lift makers have to pay for this testing.

2. Cost. I wasn't willing to go broke, but wasn't afraid to spend a bit more for what I decided was a good unit.

3. Ability to lift all the vehicles we have from the Viper to the Excursion.

I bought a Bend Pak HD9. I got the slightly longer approach ramps and the Vipers clear with plenty of room. It is ALI rated to due the reduntant safeties (and I'm sure other features).

The HD9 has the usual locks at each corner to hold the load when raised.... (You always want to rest the lift on the locks and NOT rely on the hydraulic ram for holding)..but also a "emergency lock" at each corner. In the event of a cable failure or loosening...that corner locks automatically. Dual locks at each corner...a BIG deal.

9000 pound capacity, so it lifts the Excursion with no problem. In fact, the Excursion parks on the lift most of the time.

It is ALI rated, due in part to the dual safety locks.

Finally, it was good for me that the "regular" locks are air operated...not mechanical with rods and levers. (There is an option of an on-board air bottle that stores pressure while the lift raises so you would not need compressed shop air)

Available in both 120 and 220, wheel kits are available to roll the HD9. I've had mine just over two years and found it to be the best tool I ever bought for my garage....I use it all the time.

I won't bash another brand but I consideered Backyard Buddy and while I'm sure they are good...they're not ALI rated and I wasn't thrilled with the idea of the way the lift worked. Meaning, I didn't like the idea of cross bars travelling up and down on the outside of the columns. Backyard Buddy recommends them being lubricated (for good reason) on the outside of the columns and I figured I'd get grease all over clothes, etc....track it into a car, etc. Plus, when I checked price it was something like $7000.

I got my HD9 from ASE Deals and I think it was about $2600. I assembled it myself except for some car club friends help to set up the heavy pieces.

Okay...I've typed enough...and likely more than anyone cares to read. Like I wrote, I've had it two years and would't change a thing. There's lots of info on line about the certifications, etc....

Please feel free to PM if you want to see other pictures, have questions, etc.

 

[All Blue ACR]

Make sure you buy a lift made in the USA.

 

[Next Phase]

+1 on the 220V. Your garage should have plenty of space in the panel box to have a 220V breaker installed, and the wiring is very simple.

Look for a lift that has a good warranty and local support and service. Are you looking to have it bolted to the floor? Do you know if your concrete floor is 3,000 or 5,000 psi concrete?

Regardless, you need a lift. I'll bring the beer over if you let me borrow the lift now and again to work on my RT/10.

Regards,
Craig

Let me know if you need any help installing the lift Shawn.

-Marko

 

[JoelW]

Make sure you buy a lift made in the USA.

I have a Nusbaum (German) and a Rotary. The Nusbaum (Nut Tree) is expensive but it has controls on both sides and double cylinders that work like you would expect a hydraulic cylinder to work. (Some inexpensivie lifts have only one hydraulic cylinder and lift with cables. ) Nusbaum lifts aren't cheap but the quality is excellent. My Rotary lift has been great for over 15 years and I have had no problem with it. It has some features, like tilt up lift points that the Nusbaum does not. Most Rotary Lifts are still made in the US. The only problem with a 4 post drive on lift is that you must still pick the car up to work on it - wheels and brakes etc. That and the ramps are still in the way. Of course that is why folks in the exhaust business like drive on lifts. It gives access to the complete underside of the car. You need to think about what you want to do with a lift. If oil changes are all you want to do, then a 4 post, drive on lift is fine. If you want to rotate or change tires pr do service work on the brakes or suspension, you won't be very happy.

 

[JoelW]

I should have also said that neither lift I have will go under the Viper without a bit of work - this is something you don't have a problem with if you buy a drive on - just make sure the ramps will clear the undercarriage.

 

[Dom426h]

Hold up... 220 vs 120 Is it really faster? I would think that the speed would be kept constant for safty reasons and the 220 would simply be to cut the amps in half required to pull a higher weight capacity and/or support a longer circuit/extensioncord and not flip a breaker. This would explain why the 8000lb G.S. lift is 120v and the 12,000lb one is 240v [/QUOTE]
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10571

Do any manufactures actually list a spec for how fast their lift lifts???



Are any of the lifts suggested capable of doing this request?

I then want to get those jacks on each side to where I could push a button and it would raise it up to pick it up from the frame rails to where I could do work on the wheels.

I am aware of this made by gregsmith:

You must be registered for see images

But is there any 4-posts that have a lift built into the drive-on rails? or some other method of lifting the whole vehicle from the sides without closing in the underside?

 

[Dom426h]

Mohawk is the last lift you'll ever buy. Slightly overkill for such light duty, but every time I put something up on my A7 I know I don't have to worry.

That lift has a 7,000lb capacity. A Ford Excursion weighs in at over 7,000lbs

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OP, Honestly do you plan on doing much to your Ford besides fluid changes? Is it really worth it to spend that much extra $$ on a higher capacity lift to support it when you can simply drive the truck up on two 2x8's or 2x10's in your drivway, slide a pan under and change fluids in minutes???(thats how i do my truck...)

 

[hou99gts]

Hold up... 220 vs 120 Is it really faster? I would think that the speed would be kept constant for safty reasons and the 220 would simply be to cut the amps in half required to pull a higher weight capacity and/or support a longer circuit/extensioncord and not flip a breaker. This would explain why the 8000lb G.S. lift is 120v and the 12,000lb one is 240v

I can tell you that commercial lifts at a business are faster than my 110V "hobbist" lift at home (Direct Lift 8S). I was told and read that 220V are faster as well. Yes, if the motors are rated at the same speed and used the same pumps, they would be the same speed. However, the advantage to the 220V is that it can power a larger displacement pump, thus making the lift faster. The 110V is "very safe" due to its slower speed IMO.

 

[Matt M PA]

After reading this more carefully, I guess I need to make a few more points.
While both my Vipers are stock ride height, they both clear with plenty of room with the optional longer approach ramps.

Bend Pak does offer the hydraulic lifts for these four post models. I cannot comment on the clearance needed but they ride along the inside channels of each runway. I bought a pair of jack trays for mine on which I can use a hydraulic scissors jack that fit under the Viper. (I use a midrise lift for removing wheels and so forth)

If memory serves me, the HD9 list to its highest position in about 45 seconds running on 220 volts. The 110 model talk almost twice that time, again if memory serves. I thought it was well worth going for the 220 model when I ordered mine.

 

[99 R/T 10]

I have bought from www.completehydraulic.com when we had a group buy here about 5 years ago. I will buy from them again in the next 4-6 months. They have many options on the lifts, and the 4 post come complete with 3 drip trays, one can be used for jacking and a caster kit.

They did say if I could get 6 people together to buy a lift, they would do a discount on the advertised price.

 

[v10enomous]

Here's my Lift thread. I am looking to get another one in the next few months. The Dannmar is the top selling lift and similar to many others on the market. I can find no fault with it whatsoever. OK... the only thing I would change would be the sand finish on the ramps and runways. I would prefer a diamond plate because it would be easier to clean but even that is fine. My car is not lowered but it clears easily. Lowering is faster than lifting but lifting speed is good. It's 110 but I have to plug it into the higher output outlet that I had installed for my compressor. It came with casters and drip trays and I can get my SUV under it even with the ramps on which they always are. My ceilings are also 12' and it raises the car without any chance of hitting the ceiling.

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/633587-Dannmar-D7-X-4-Post-Lift-Experience?highlight=dannmar