Start-up/alternator removal questions

[green_rt10]

Hey all,

Working on my 1995 RT/10, and wanted to get some advice. I keep it in a storage unit and just try to drive it fairly often to keep it charged. Brought it home, ran a quick errand five minutes away, and it wouldn't restart an hour later. Fuel pump came on (and then turned off, appropriately), but it just cranked. Following the advice of a member here (one of the cornerstone folks on this site—you know who you are, and thanks again!), I carefully jumped it. It started immediately, and I got the car home. Bought a tender, charged the battery to full charge (voltmeter showed it was pretty low). Next week: exact same thing. Called that member again, caaaaaaaarefully jumped. It started right away, and I got it home. Pulled the battery. Battery is fine. Holding charge.

The headlights, I've noted in ~three years I've had the car, dim sometimes when driving—like, the illumination dips slightly (it remains on the entire time) and then comes back. The crappy aftermarket radio stopped working about two years ago. There seems to be just a trace of misfire, if I listen really closely (I did replace the plugs recently). I'm thinking (hoping) it's the alternator. Sounds pretty alternator-y, all things considering. The plan is to get the alternator off and get it tested and, if necessary, rebuilt by a local shop.

So, my two questions:
—In trying to get the alternator off, how in the world do I get the driver-side bolt off (link)? The bolt head is facing the engine (why, oh why?), and it is very tight (access-wise). Do I have to take off the driver-side throttle body? Is there some sort of trick?
—Anything else I'm missing? Really hoping it's not the PCM. Starter must be okay because I can get it to start.

Thanks!
Seth

 

[Goggles Pizano]

PCM is the voltage regulator.

Battery holds charge or charges to 100% but you need to load test it.

And you haven't even tested the charging system or attempted to troubleshoot. You are jumping pass toooooooo many things you need to test.

 

[green_rt10]

I'm all ears. : ) New to this stuff, and having trouble finding an in-town mechanic who will look at it, unfortunately.

I've tested the battery's charge (both installed and removed—all good). I've tested the battery with all available accessories on (all good - 12.6v, as I recall; did it on the phone with the forum member who walked me through the load test and said it was good). Had my wife listen for the fuel pump when I turned the key to accessory. Primed and then turned off, as normal, so... all good? So, the thought was to take the alternator in for tests, next.

I just do not want to keep jump starting the car, if I can help it in any way.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Remove your battery, charge it overnight and go to one of the auto parts store if you are in the US to get them to load test it for free.

Plus what terminals you jumping the car from?

 

[green_rt10]

Hey,
Busy week, and am just coming back to this. Charged the battery fully, took it to a store, and it passed the load test. I'm probably going to take the car into a shop later this week, but I'm definitely still interested in any diy/easy ideas that anyone might have.
Thanks!

 

[Goggles Pizano]

So what terminals are you jumping from?

Since battery is now fully charged and assumed good,

You can do a voltage drop test on the battery and battery terminals.

Then the same on the terminals on the PDC (driver's side under the hood)

Start the car and measure the voltage at the PDC and at the battery.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Alternator on G1 engines is not PCM regulated.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Shit. Missed that it was a Gen 1.

Scratch just that comment. The rest still applies.