Viper stalling

Rheeder218

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Our 94 stalls at the stop sign.

Here is how it goes. Start car up back out of garage cruise down street to main road. Get on main road and cruise between 35 and 40 then come up to the stop sign shift in to neutral and push in brake pedal get to sign then the car seems to struggle to stay running then it will either bounce back up in to idleing RPM range or just shut the car down. I have replaced the TPS sensor that didnt help out at all. I havent had a chance to hook it up to a OBD computer yet. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? It does have the 185 thermostat in it, KN filters, smooth tubes and that is it. Thanks for the help.
 

99 R/T 10

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Dave hit all the best bets:
Idle Air Controller and TBs, clean them as best you can with some carb cleaner.

TPS ground? Sometimes its not as good as it should be, double check it and enhance.

Reset PCM? Sometimes by disconnecting the PCM for 15-20 will fix the problem. It resets back to original parameters and relearns.

If none if these fixes work, change out the battery even though it may still seem good. A low battery does funny things to the Viper's electronics.
 

Jeff Torrey

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My 92 was doing that and Chuck Tator told me to change out the Map Sensor. I did that and if fixed the problem.

I would call him 914-763-3136
 

DaytonaViper

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Unless you replaced the battery lately or a daily driver.......my bet is on the battery.:drive:
 

Dan Cragin

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This is a simple adjustment to the throttle cables and the use of a set screw to lock the cables to prevent the problem in the future. Call me. I have the parts and can tell you how to correct it.
 

cyaford

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My car was doing the same thing last year, and the year before. I could back out of the garage and drive down the road just fine. When I'd come to a stop at a light or a stop sign, the car would idle really low and sometimes die. I thought for sure it could NOT be the battery, even though numerous people on this forum said it was one of the most likely problems. I reluctantly installed a new battery and the problem was gone! My Viper unfortunately does not get driven much, and I never had it on a battery charger. After my second battery replacement(same symptoms) about a year later to the day, I got a new battery under warranty from Autozone, went home to install the battery, and immediately ordered a battery tender from PartsRack. I'm fairly certain my battery problems will now no longer be a yearly occurrence. :D
 

ViperJay

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i just installed a diehard last week. i have never had a diehard die on me. it made a very noticeable difference.
 

Rollin4

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Remove the IAC (careful not to damage or loose the O ring gasket) use a cleaner and clean the carbon from IAC and throttle bodies. Adjust throttle bodies and Happy Motoring. Problem solved.:drive:
 

-FROG-

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I see alot of good things mentioned. I would also recommend IAC, MAP Sensor and sync Throttle Bodies.
 
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Rheeder218

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alright changed the battery, grounded the positive cable, new TPS, looked at the IAC and it looked clean. So im guessing that this could be a MAP sensor?
 

dave6666

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alright changed the battery, grounded the positive cable, new TPS, looked at the IAC and it looked clean. So im guessing that this could be a MAP sensor?

Although a clean IAC is a good sign, it could still be sticking.

Theory that could be wrong... If the IAC closes as you move past idle and the TB's take over, and then then the IAC does not re-open at idle, then the car would die being starved for air. Don't know if that's how it all works though, just an idea. But hey, the part is 14 years old. Put a new one on just because?

Also, did you set WOT after the PCM reset? If that is needed on your Gen 1.
 

mangle

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If you haven't resynched the TBs yet (I may be blind, but I haven't seen that you've done this), I'd try that before spending any more money. Just push the grey buttons, pull the cable back, then get in the car and push the pedal to the floor.
 

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