what to look for when looking at these vipers>>>>

PETSN8K

Viper Owner
Joined
Apr 1, 2002
Posts
123
Reaction score
0
Location
memphis, tn
Physically, the areas which show the most wear would be the front facia (particularly on the lower sides in front of the front tires), the rims (lots of curb rashed rims out there), the side sills (discoloring and/or scratches), the carpet on the door (tends to get knotted up), and the leather on the seats (will wear like any other car). Always check the tire tread, especially the INSIDE tread. I would also check the fluids, oil and brake, for unusually dirty oil (lack of proper care) and/or "burnt" brake fluid (has been run hard). And always run a history check through Carfax and a VIN check through your local Dodge dealers service department. Good luck with your purchase.

Scott
 

Bonkers

VCA Venom Member
Venom Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2002
Posts
5,328
Reaction score
75
Location
DelaWhere? USA
Of course run the VIN and check with me. Two of the 96 GTSs off my list have vanished off the ads so they could be back out cruising...
 

Stiffler

Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
322
Reaction score
0
Location
Rising Sun, Maryland (USA)
As I have been learning (the hard way) is that 96 GTS Coupes tend to leak oil. From what I've read on this website and learned on my own, look for leaky timing cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets and any oil leaking down the back of the motor and onto the frame, which could mean a porous block. I've been really lucky, I bought my GTS from Buhler Dodge and they've done what it takes to get my car fixed properly. My engine is currently at Arrow Racing. Be sure to look into a DC extended warranty or service contract with any Viper you purchase.
 

Ron Hickey

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 2, 2000
Posts
602
Reaction score
0
Location
Falls Church, VA
Drive the car and then put it up on a lift. Look for frame damage/repair, paint overspray. Check for oil and fluid leaks. Are there lots of scrapes on the underside of the sidesills and front fascia? Does the '96 have a transferable warranty? If not, can you buy one for it? Unless you're planning on making the car a garage queen (ie, hardly ever driving it), you will probably get your money's worth from an investment in a warranty. Does the car have the original MXX3 tires? If so, they're 8 years old now and will need replacing.

Under the hood, check fluid levels and condition. If anything is amiss, you can figure the car did not receive the best of maintenance. Buying a used Viper is not like buying a used Neon; you don't want to make a $50,000 mistake. There are lots of cars out there in excellent condition. Don't settle for anything less, unless there is a substantial discount.
 

Bonkers

VCA Venom Member
Venom Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2002
Posts
5,328
Reaction score
75
Location
DelaWhere? USA
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by blk99cobra:
"Two of the 96 GTSs off my list have vanished off the ads so they could be back out cruising..."

What do you mean?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm attempting to keep track of salvaged Vipers across the country. There were two 96 GTSs (one in FL the other in NY) that were lightly totaled (ie very easily fixed.) They were purchased by unknown rebuilders and have dissappeared into the works. I'd bet honest money they are out sitting on a dealership lot by now. (Of course the chances of you looking at one of these two are incredibly slim, but you still want to run the VIN through carfax)
 

King GTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 5, 2001
Posts
2,504
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, Tx.
Definitely look completely under the front facia. Also completely open the hood - make sure it's 100% functional and opens all the way. Look around the hood area for cracks or chips in the paint. Look under the side sills for scratches or chips too. Lastly inspect the interior. On the 96, pray that it's hot and take her for a spin. Look for some stop & go traffic and watch the temp gague!
 

SneakyPete

Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 19, 2002
Posts
703
Reaction score
0
Location
Miami, FL--> SLITHRN, USA
I have bought 3 vipers, this might help.

I just looked at a 1997 GTS yesterday,
The add was 1997 viper gts, female owned, 8800 miles, perfect, $51,900 with 7/50k ext. warantee.

I called and told her the kbb.com private seller price was 47,800 for outstanding condition car and she said that was the lowest price she would sell for.

When I got ther it was a mess, hood would not open, driver door rubbed and droped when opened, front fascia under beat all to hell, paint had not be taken car and scratches and chips all over, rear rim edge at a curb big time, car ran hot 225 with driving hard, gas cap all corroted, seat ripped and brand new tires.

1) Go to kbb.com and edmunds.com and find out the true market value of your car for trade in, private seller and dealer resell, that way you have a good ball park of true value of the car.

2) Run VIN # Service history at dodge dealer, then call serving dealer and get detailed information on each repair.

3) www.carfax.com and get car fax lemon report of the car's history, this will tell any accident repairs and such that have been performed.

4)I take a giant magnifying glass with me to look at the paint, it is the only way to see all the chips and scratchs, and OVERSPRAY!!!! especially when they are asking for top dollar. Any imperfections are deductions off the price.

5)Check rims very well. Look for scratches, dings and curb shots on the outer edges.

6)Open and shut both doors and rear deck window. Does the door rub when opening/shutting and drop.

7)Open and close hood, look for gap between hood and front end, should be small. also check to make sure the corners of the hood are hitting the head lights.

8)Check under front fascia, is it all ground down.

9)When hitting the brakes hard, does the front right lock up or squeel.

10) I also open both doors, hood and in each under fender well and look for tape lines and overspray for possible body repair.

11) Get it on the highway and drive it moderately ******* a hot day and see how hot it runs. I drove it in 90 degree's and temp gauge way at 225 and was not even driving hard, so I did not even go on the highway, it was alreadly running to hot for me. might just be low coolant or air pocket, but might be head gasket.

12) Drive it hard, Start off in first nice and slow up to 20 mph and hit it up to 50, slam it into second, if the clutch and motor are solid the tire should spin and chirp pretty good.
I also lauch it out off the hole, semi hard to double check the grip of the clutch and such.

13) Always assume something is wrong with the car and the person is selling it and trying to rip you off, If you see something wrong with the car, ask the owner and if the owner says, OH I DIDNT SEE THAT, OR ISNT THAT NORMAL, then they are usually lying or very retarted.

14) Always offer them less money than what you are willing to pay for the car. If they want to sell the car bad enough they will accept your offer or counter offer im-imbetween the asking price and the price you offered.
 

Motor City Mad Man

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 11, 2000
Posts
1,219
Reaction score
3
Location
Las Vegas, NV
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>9)When hitting the brakes hard, does the front right lock up or squeel.


[/B]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What would this indicate, (the right front brake locking up that is), and why would it only be a problem on the right front?
 

SneakyPete

Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 19, 2002
Posts
703
Reaction score
0
Location
Miami, FL--> SLITHRN, USA
9)When hitting the brakes hard, does the front right lock up or squeel.

Just a problem I found on the latest car I looked at, front right brake would lock up under average brake pressure and pull to the right. I have owned 3 vipers and none of them has done that.

Just suggesting to hammer the brakes good and see how well they feel and if they stop straight.
 

joe117

Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 4, 2002
Posts
5,391
Reaction score
1
Location
Maryland, USA
I looked at the Kelly Blue Book prices for Vipers in various condition. I'll have to say that I think the prices are much lower than what I have seen in the real world. The older cars really are a bargain at the KBB prices. Did you know you can buy, as a private party, a 94 RT in good condition for about $24K? I've never seen anything like that for sale. If it were true I think some of the Viperless fans on this board would not be Viperless for long. I think the price for a 98 RT with 10k miles and good condition was abou $45k. Is that real? I don't know. They probably don't get much data input for their records on cars like Vipers but I still don't see how they could be so low.
 

joe117

Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 4, 2002
Posts
5,391
Reaction score
1
Location
Maryland, USA
Overspray would be paint in places where there should be no paint. On a new Viper the body is painted before it's put on the car. If the car has been repainted there will often be signs of spray paint in places where it should have been masked by tape or paper. Not a big deal in itself but evedence of a repaint job.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
153,278
Posts
1,682,608
Members
17,794
Latest member
felixagg
Top