air bag light on, no turn signals, no A/C, no blower position.

aqwut

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Just brought my ACR home this past weekend. I had just finish changing the ownership and after about an hour of cruising I get a red air bag indicator light. That would be fine, but the annoying thing is. I lose my Air Conditioning, my turn signals and I have no control over the blower positioning. Very annoying to ride in a viper while sweating like a pig... I "think" I had temporarily resolved the problem by opening up the fuse panel and pushing everything down. Darn these fuses and blocks, they were freakin' "HOT". But after, I opened them up and wiggled them a bit. Everything seem to work. I'm not sure if it is over heating the fuses/relays some how or bad connection. Any help would be much appreciated.
It is a 2008 Red/Black ACR
 

Mopar Steve

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Too many circuts to be positive side of the circut that is bad. Sounds more like corosion on a ground circut. If the ground is bad you could get back feeding through other items making the fuse panel hot.
 
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aqwut

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Too many circuts to be positive side of the circut that is bad. Sounds more like corosion on a ground circut. If the ground is bad you could get back feeding through other items making the fuse panel hot.

I checked the connections on the battery, it didn't look too bad.
I don't know if it is something small.. But I am sh*t scared.
I did the key trick from when I had my 2000 Intrepid.

The 2008 ACR had these error codes. Today I opened up the battery hatch and checked all 6 cells. All cells were low with electrolyte, so I added some distilled water. I will get a new interstate or red top battery tomorrow. I did disconnect the battery and cleaned both terminals with a terminal brush. Also, it looks to be the original mopar battery. Could an old/bad battery cause all these error codes?

P0068
P0069
P0129
P1628
P2101
P2104
P2106
P2127
P2227
P2502
 

ViperGeorge

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After shipping my ACR back from VOI the battery was virtually dead. Jump started the car and it drove home fine from where the trucker dropped it off, about 25 miles. No CELs whatever. When I got home the battery was still dead reading about 4 volts. Charged battery over night and it has been fine ever since. Point is there were no CELs even with a virtually dead battery.
 

viperprowler1

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I just installed a new Mopar 800 CCA battery on my 2008 ACR since the battery died while in transit on Passport last month. The driver had it all the way in front on the top and we had quite a time rolling it out. Even after jumping it, the engine would barely run and I had all kinds of warning lights on. Popped in the new battery and VROOOM...engine started and all codes cleared and it has never started better. Good luck. Mike
 
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aqwut

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I just installed a new Mopar 800 CCA battery on my 2008 ACR since the battery died while in transit on Passport last month. The driver had it all the way in front on the top and we had quite a time rolling it out. Even after jumping it, the engine would barely run and I had all kinds of warning lights on. Popped in the new battery and VROOOM...engine started and all codes cleared and it has never started better. Good luck. Mike
kg

I am hoping to have the same luck as you... 10 error codes is insane to even think abiut
 
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aqwut

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Bought a Interstate MT7 AGM battery. Same problem occurs. when I shut the car and turn it back on a few times, everything works for a few minutes, then shut off. I am stunned, and Can only imagine how much they will charge me at the dealership, they probably have never worked on a viper before in my area. Snap~
 

AZTVR

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just a guess, but you might nee a PCM.

What does a new PCM run?.. The car drives fine, except for those mention above.

In the $1000 range. An expensive part to use to shotgun a problem, though. It sounds to me like you need on site help from a professional mechanic.

I'm assuminig that you must have bought this car from a private party as-is? No chance of going back to a reputable car dealer on this purchase?
 

AZTVR

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In the $1000 range. An expensive part to use to shotgun a problem, though. It sounds to me like you need on site help from a professional mechanic.

To make a constructive input, if you don't get a ah-ha! moment response from one of the experienced Viper mechanics here (there are some that respond at times.) then, the suggestion always put forward is to call Chuck Tator. I have talked with him years ago and he was astoundingly accommodating to fielding a question.However, I did not feel "right" about calling a pro mechanic to ask a question and take him away from his income producing work, though. I have emailed him a couple of times to get a very short sentence or 2 of advice.
 
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wikkid

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I have called Chuck many times. And this man goes out of his way to help.
 
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aqwut

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In the $1000 range. An expensive part to use to shotgun a problem, though. It sounds to me like you need on site help from a professional mechanic.

I'm assuminig that you must have bought this car from a private party as-is? No chance of going back to a reputable car dealer on this purchase?

I had a purchased from a private seller for a hell of a steal. There is a certified dealership in the city next by.
 
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aqwut

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today I unhooked the battery for about an hour and made sure the system was completely discharged. Not to add to my list of problems, the check engine light is on.
 

wikkid

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today I unhooked the battery for about an hour and made sure the system was completely discharged. Not to add to my list of problems, the check engine light is on.
Gotta be pretty upsetting to buy a new ACR and have something like this happen, or any new car for that matter. Once you get it straightened out all will be good. Knowing myself, im one of those people that lose sleepover **** like this.
 
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aqwut

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Gotta be pretty upsetting to buy a new ACR and have something like this happen, or any new car for that matter. Once you get it straightened out all will be good. Knowing myself, im one of those people that lose sleepover **** like this.

You Nailed it, It is hard for me to sleep, but I also realize this is one of the frustrations that goes with buying a second hand vehicle. Does anyone know if the A/C, turn signals, vent position, defroster, Airbags signal go to the ECU or PCM?. I need this car up and running at 100%, I would buy a new PCM if I had to, but I will wait until it goes to Chrysler @ 9:30 AM this coming Monday.
 

ViperGeorge

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today I unhooked the battery for about an hour and made sure the system was completely discharged. Not to add to my list of problems, the check engine light is on.

Usually when you disconnect the battery on a Gen 4 you will get a CEL when you reconnect. It is for "Engine Off Timer". It will reset with some driving and does not put car in limp mode. Buy a code reader and reset the code.
 
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aqwut

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Usually when you disconnect the battery on a Gen 4 you will get a CEL when you reconnect. It is for "Engine Off Timer". It will reset with some driving and does not put car in limp mode. Buy a code reader and reset the code.

I will get one, I noticed my battery gauge today. when the ignition key is turned on, the red light stays on. after startup, it drops and takes a while to go back up to voltage. Does anyone elses GEN IV do this?..

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Hey Aqwut, have you followed the positive cable and ground from the battery to see if it's tightly secured down and not loose anywhere? From what I gather If either of the two cables is loose it will short and throw the CEL's when it shorts. If the connection isn't on there secured it could take the battery a while to charge once it's on. also check the positive cable under the hood as well make sure it's tightened.
 
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aqwut

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Hey Aqwut, have you followed the positive cable and ground from the battery to see if it's tightly secured down and not loose anywhere? From what I gather If either of the two cables is loose it will short and throw the CEL's when it shorts. If the connection isn't on there secured it could take the battery a while to charge once it's on. also check the positive cable under the hood as well make sure it's tightened.
I have only followed teh ground from the battery the chassis, and conneciton looks soild there. I have only followed the positive from the battery to where I can see/feel and it look good as well.. The Front hood connections are secure. There is such a big voltage drop when starting the car, even with two batteries. very weird.
 
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aqwut

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Have the alternator tested and check the connection on it

I will try that after I bring it to the dealer. I did test the alternator and it does pump out 14.2 Volts I took off both connections looked at it and sprayed it with an electrical contact cleaner. But, then again I am not a professional.
 
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aqwut

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$100 later the tech at the dealership could not figure it out. Any viper tech in The Detroit, MI area? or London/Toronto, Ontario Area?
 

ViperGeorge

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I will get one, I noticed my battery gauge today. when the ignition key is turned on, the red light stays on. after startup, it drops and takes a while to go back up to voltage. Does anyone elses GEN IV do this?..

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Ok, that's weird. Neither of my Gen 4s do this. In addition to checking the alternator I would check to see if there is some kind of current draw (like from a short somewhere).
 
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