There is a "scoop" or air deflector for the Gen. IV hood that is diffferent than the one for the Gen. III hood. You won't have any fitment issues when you install the scoop onto your Gen. IV hood with a Gen. III airbox. There is also a seal for the Gen. IV hood that adheres to the underside of...
Checking cold assures you that all of the oil is in the pan for a true reading. If checking hot, wait at least 15 mins for the oil to make its way down to the pan. The check with the car level. Fill up to the top fill line.
I also thought the Mopar race system is actually made by Borla. Your best bet is to spend a few bucks more and purchase the Corsa system and relieve yourself of the annoying drone you'll get with the Mopar system.
Man, please take the car to a reputable repair shop first before you even think about trying to fix it yourself. This is what liability insurance is for. Don't ever tell the responsible party/person it's no big deal until you know for sure. In the end, you'll end up paying for your own...
He's talking specifically about a broken knuckle. This is cast aluminum part - it doesn't bend nor flex. If it is still fully intact and not broken in any way, then it must be something else causing the noise you're hearing.
I am also in the Houston region (yes, I do need to renew my membership) and have been member in this region since 2002 and I, as well, have never seen this car.
Add me to the list of those with a OE Gen. IV hood on a Gen. III and had absolutely no interference issues with the stock Gen. III airbox. The ONLY issue is the seal or lack thereof around the NACA duct which can allow some of the heated engine air to seep into the airbox.
I would sell mine for that price right now (5700 miles and also immaculate)! I'll even throw in a Gen. IV hood, chromed 5 spokes with PS2's, Eradispeed drilled & slotted rotors, and Corsa exhaust. And you can have all of the original parts for free!!!
Of course, that's more or less a 'rule of thumb' as any manual for any car will tell you to disconnect the battery before servicing an electrical part - whether you absolutely need to or not.
I have a perfect chromed set (chromed by CalChrome) with less than 200 mile PS2's, TPMS sensors and chromed center caps I may be selling in about a month or so.
Correction: Factory stripes are both over and under a clear coat. They are painted over the existing base/clear coat then painted on and clear coated. In other words, the stripes do in fact have a clear coat.
As was previously mentioned, the area is so small that two of the OE amps wouldn't fit anyway. If you want more power, you're better off buying a better, higher capacity aftermarket amp and placing it in the trunk area along with better sounding speakers.
In other words, an extra OE amp...
I have a Gen. IV hood installed on my Gen. III Commemorate Edition and the striping situation was unique. It had to be done (I insisted that it be done) the same way as the original factory hood in that the entired hood was painted white, clear coated, and then the blue stripes painted and clear...
Barrett Jackson is fair market value? What have you been smoking? If you pay $80k for a used 2006, you better ask for the custom enclosed trailer and the spare engine that supposed to come with it. You want fair market value, see Ebay, Autotrader, Cars.com, etc.
As mark said, it's best to tack weld the muffler to Cat connections prior to tighening everything up. The Corsa instructions recommend this step as well.
Go to the Corsa website and download the .pdf file. It will show you the rough measurements for the tips and torque requirements. You will still need to do an "on-off" with the sills several times before you're comfortable with the final positioning. And since you already understand the...
Don't believe there's much you can do unless their undamaged claim was made to you in writing. They can also simply say that you could have possibly caused this damage after the car was sold which someone has already mentioned. Lesson learned is all dealerships aren't created equal in terms of...
That's not necessarily true. Materials and the manner at which they are stressed (from the manner at which forces are applied) has a direct impact on failure. In addition, these parts also benefit from the dampening of the shock to help alleviate some of the high stresses during "normal"...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.