They are much softer and I would barely classify them as a street tire...but they are DOT approved. I can now go through the traps easily in 4th vs. banging the rev limiter with the shorter BFG's.
So far, yes. I'm running PS2's on the front with my 18's.
A local guy has talked to the dealer about buying this car. The dealer now realizes that this car IS NOT what is represented in the RSI 1500 package and they've removed the listing. It is a built, TT car. But several notches below what was being advertised.
Have you seen it make the 1344rwhp with only 18 psi, like the add claimed? Unless the car was heavily modded by somebody OTHER THAN RSI, not a chance. RSI has already confirmed that what I have posted.
The car being sold WILL NOT make anywhere near 1300rwhp with the Split-second ECU being used. Not to mention, it has 61mm turbos NOT the 76's referenced in the RSI package.
If UGR set up your boost through the AEM, you can adjust it by speed...which helps. If you have the Greddy Profec B, I'm not sure how you can adjust the boost to help with traction.
You don't need a hardtop at John's track. The Lemke top goes with the lines of the SRT much better than the Autoform IMO. Not to mention, the side "windows" of the Autoform top kill it for me. Lastly, I can pick-up Lemke's top and put in on the car without anyone elses help, and it takes about...
I have all that. The facts are that a TT at the track, will always run faster than most tracks allow...especially Ennis. Unless of course, you want to muck up your vert with a roll-cage. There are a handfull of events each year to run "all-out". The good thing for us Texas owners, is that John...
I have Lemkes top, and IMO it looks better that the Autoform. If you're looking for one to run the 1/4 mile, it still won't get you under 11.49 at Ennis. You will also need a 6 pt. and other safety equip. for tech to allow you to go 10.0
The top also moves around a bit at 205mph...so it will...
I will check the relays. My plug wires are brand new AB wires, so I'm sure that's not the problem...as it's done this prior replacing the stock wires.
Hopefully it's not the crank trigger, as that's a little harder to replace.
I've checked those. I can hear my fuel pumps come on and my fuel pressure is what it should be, when I cycle my ignition. I'm thinking its the stock coil packs or AEM. I'm just wondering what else I could check to rule other things out.
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