Nothing is 100%...but, Use a load bearing dyno, not an inertia dyno. Also make sure that the dyno has an automatic weather station. If not make sure that the operator enters the weather data right before your runs. Also make sure that the operator uses the same correction factor. On the load...
I'd rather be closer to 12.8-9. Add a little more fuel and if you lose power you might be able to add a little more timing. If your able to add more timing it'll lean you out, and intern add fuel back untill your about 12.8-12.9 and at the same power as before. Also based on your graph you can...
95% of the time if your headers are glowing then you have unburned fuel igniting in the header. Most likley from a rich condition or your timing is way retarded.
The reason to worry about it is you could have hot and cold cylinders on one bank and all though you AFR on that bank might be good you could still damage a piston in the hot cylinder. In a forced induction app. it is even more critical. Go buy an EGT and check cylinder by cylinder just to be on...
Do you have access to and EGT sensor? If you do go cylinder by cylinder to find the hot cylinder or cylinders. Adjust the fuel injector offset for that cylinder. Or if you have a 4 gas analyzer look at your gas levels to let you know what's happening.
I have a TT genII, genIII vert. and a GT. All great cars for different reasons. If your just looking for a GREAT toy, then the GT is the best of the bunch.
Re: Kooks headers installed and dyno\'d
The position isn't too bad, it's the angle. From the pics I would guess that only 1/8-3/16" of the sensor will see the exhaust gas, and the part that does is at what ever angle the bung is at. For saftey with the wideband I'd install another bung so that...
From: 1999GTS800ITLLFLY
please see latest post. I am considering selling them.
This is the PM 99 sent me after my inquire of the aluminum frame in this thread.
I'd like to see the Aluminum frame also! Do you have any CAD drawings of it? If you do would you forward me a copy? I'd love to build one for myself.
Michael
The (2) 3/16"X 1" flat bars that attach the seat to the rear mounting studs on the floor. Weld another flat bar on top of those forming the upside down T.
Hope that helps!
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.