I used a couple tie wraps that I could slide over the tee handle to keep it from pushing out quite as bad. I think the primary culprit is blowby pressure. Lots of surface area to push against.
I actually bought a Euro exhaust system for my 93 that I was going to install, but ended up trading the car on my GTS. I studied the later setup and found the turn-ins from the side sills come farther toward the middle than the 2 muffler BUX setup. You may be able to use the full G2 rear set and...
Now that you've earned your stripes - next time, put some silicone grease on a Q-tip, then apply inside the rubber boots before pressing onto the coil towers and plugs.
I just put these Taylor looms on my car with Scott wires. The bolts supplied were all about 5/16" too long so I trimmed and chamfered them. I had to double-nut and remove several of the OE studs but they worked out pretty nice IMO. You can order these in multiple colors, 8 or 10.4mm wire...
First thing to do RIGHT NOW is to confirm that your crank damper bolt is not loose. It isn't easy to get a wrench on, but imperative that you do! Are you having any steering issues too?
You'll need a 1.25" or 32mm deep socket and a breakover bar. Or a short one with the right extension.
If cost/availability ARE an issue, the purpose of the exercise is to get you to see the wisdom in buying the 002B, then swap the quick disconnect fitting from your existing slave cylinder.
6 weeks later, I decided to prep and paint the bare beaded faces with a graphite color. I searched a while for some nut caps to mask 2 wheels' worth so I didn't have to disassemble them for a nice job. Masking the lips took time, but I'll have the other 2 finished this coming weekend if it isn't...
Small wires are just fine *IF* you keep them neatly routed away from header heat. Factory shielding and looms are nicely done, but wires will eventually fail along their length from aging of the outer sleeve.
Racing/HDPE puts a lot more heat load around the plugs from exhaust headpipes and that...
There are 2 wrench flats on the shifter ball base for the smaller wrench. The 3/4"/19mm jam nut is tightened right below it. Just tug down and twist the boot a little over the nut.
Thermal efficiency is better when running warmer within reasonable limits. You just want to be able to 'keep a lid' on high demand heat rejection requirements so that you don't cook things under the hood.
Gotta respect a man who goes boldly against popular wisdom and triumphs. So far, so good. Let us know how it works this summer, and with track loads. Probably going to need some refinement, but you seem up to the task. You do plan to replumb some steering cooling, right?
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