A couple of eyeball measurements with a carpenter's square:
Rear
Center hub to centerline of toe link: 5.75"/145mm. Thread pitch: 1.5mm.
Front
Hub CL to outer ball jt. 6"/150mm. Thread pitch also 1.5mm
Radius of std 25.6" OD tire: 25.6/2=12.8" or 325mm.
A little bit of simple trig will get you...
Mine has never gotten loose over 29 years of road and track duty being firmly hand-tight. The hose *DID* char and catch fire at the track once from radiant heat at #1 exhaust manifold port. In '98, they modified the exhaust shield with a tab that blocked that exposure. I just made my own shields...
^^That's my point.^^ If you use a bunch of Red on the bolt, you'll probably have to use either a propane, or O-A torch and heat the crank snout for it to break loose. The bolt is in there several inches, so you will cook your front seal, possibly melt the front cover, and likely ruin the heat...
The ARP bolt was originally spec'd for the B/RB big block Mopars that all have a Woodruff key to keep the damper from spinning. They do not depend on friction fit. I originally used the 160 lb-ft spec - it unscrewed itself and the damper fell off in my driveway - thankfully not destroying the...
Yes there is a no-start menu tree on the DRB with a checksum value test between the crank and cam position signals. I swapped cam sensors and still had no-fire. That is how I began to figure out I had a broken wire in the cam sensor branch of my front engine harness.
That's not dirty. This was mine after about 8-10 years of road and track use. I held the radiator flat about 1-2" off the floor and just dropped it repeatedly about 20 times to jar the sand, rubber and bug carcasses loose. Afterward, I used compressed air, then medium intensity water spray. The...
Squeeze hard o n the upper radiator hose with a glove or shop rag for insulation. That's some NASTY looking whatever in your system.
edit: and that brake fluid! God man, flush that garbage out too - TWICE!
I put a new NAPA t-stat in my car a few years ago and it had a bleed orifice already installed. It allows for efficient cold fill burping.
I owned and maintained my Viper for 27 years before I bought this setup for purging air pockets. Works like a champ for around $25! Fill the system and fill...
Both circuits get full pressure for the initial application. Above a certain relief pressure, the rears build proportionately less than fronts. If one adds an adjustable valve, then the rear working portion of the OE combination valve needs to be disabled so the new one works over its full range.
It happens to be the Right and Only way to plumb the adjustable valve in. You MUST disable the OE proportioning section. Or, put a new safety switch block in without the proportioning valve section.
I bought a bunch of Viper parts and was going through the boxes. I found this very detailed document and determined it was from Unitrax in California. I'm kind of assuming it is for a Yellow Box, but can't be certain. It's very detailed and I'm sure it will help someone in the future.
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