Most probably. Both my doors are a little misaligned with the passenger side being worse. My driver side actually fits a lot better. Surprising since it's used 95% of the time. I've tried to adjust the pass side but for some reason it still doesn't fit that well.
It seems my AEM crapped out for no particular reason. It was basically stored for a few years and just decided to stop working.
Does anyone know how I can get a hold of a unit?
So I tried a new relay and nothing changed. When I hooked up the code reader it scanned for about 30 seconds and then failed. Does that mean the PCM is fried?
I'm only diagnosing to my abilities. I don't have multi meter and am not a electronic wizard.
By swapping the ASR relay with the horn I can say the relay is good since it worked on the horn circuit.
I don't think the horn relay would work on the fuel pump socket since the pins are nowhere...
So the replacement part number doesn't look like the pins are the same.
Original 4848193
Supposedly equivalent part 4727370AA
The number of pins are less and looks like a different size. Also the orientation of the middle row is different. There's no way it would fit.
Even this one I...
Where is the horn relay? Code scanner showed no codes.
I was able to find the replacement part number. I'm just going to verify the relay blades look the same and I'll order it. The original part number is impossible to find. It shows unavailable everywhere you look.
So here's the relay. I can't seem to find it anywhere. I seem to recall years ago I've replaced it before. Where can I get one?
Looks like replacement part number is 4727370AA. I guess I'll try that first.
So I'm trying to start up my car after some time in storage. The battery is full and it started a few weeks ago. I ran it for about 10 minutes then shut it down. Now it just cranks but won't fire up. Not even sputtering. I'm suspecting it's the fuel pump since normally I hear it...
So when they added more features in the door that required more wiring they just crammed in more wires. Now the wiring bundle is too full and tight that creates tension every time you open the door. Such is when you buy a low volume hand built car. :rolleyes:
I thought the stock valve puts full pressure on the FRONT brakes and only adds rears after certain pressure. I seem to recall tons of dust only on the front wheels. I removed my valve O ring and now I have diminished braking power because my rears are working harder.
Check the wiring through the door grommets first. I pulled my hair out trying to diagnose door/window electrical issues and it turned out to be the wiring harness. I've since soldered 10 wires.
Hmmm sounds like something I may be interested in. If you create more pressure on the brake pad doesn't wear it down faster? Although it may be a good thing since the brake bias is so front heavy it may even it out.
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