1993 Gen1, anti-theft system, key fob sync fail

MelbourneVipers

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Greetings from Melbourne (Australia) in the name of the Viper.

I've been stuck now for about 2 months, since I changed the DL2016 batteries in the key fob of my Feb 1993 (rear antenna model) Gen1 Viper. I have been unable to start the car due the the immobiliser shutting off power to fuel pump, and possibly injectors.

I have followed the procedure of earthing the 'green wire' from the factory workshop manual. We have had a few automotive locksmiths out as well, tested that the transponder is sending a signal correctly. However the system is simply not syncing. I wish I never changed the DL2016 batteries from the key fob, which never worked to unlock/lock the doors, however the car always started and has otherwise been an absolute pleasure to drive. Now she sits gathering dust while I think of ways to burn her. I digress.

Having tried all options locally, my next stage looks to be finding a way to rewire the car or by-pass this cursed anti-theft system. Has anyone here any suggestions or experience bypassing the uncertainty of the cursed factory anti-theft system? Availability of parts and Viper know-how is a major issue.

Cheers and thank you in advance for any advice!
 
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Steve-Indy

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By the way, just for general information...the "green wire" is for programming key fobs.

Yes, I have heard of..and seen with my own eyes...a couple of Gen I Vipers that upon "grounding the green wire" in fact came out of "alarm shut down". As my experience with this situation expanded, I can say such a "cure" may be a fluke. There are many times when just wiggling the harness will do the same thing...likely due to faulty or loose connections.

There is a method of resetting the alarm...but it is found in the Tech training manuals. I have not seen it in the standard Service Manual for your year.

Obviously, I won't be posting an anti-theft, alarm defeating procedure in a public forum. However, I am very willing to share it with you verbally in a one-to-one fashion...as I do literally dozens of times per year.

There is also a factory stipulated method to "retire" (disable) the alarm...the procedure of which is reversible. This is up to the personal preference of the owner...going without an alarm being a trade off for a car that will not unexpectedly go into shutdown mode.

Cheers,

Steve-Indy
 
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MelbourneVipers

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Steve, thank you very kindly for your help and sharing the expertise sir, keeping these Gen1 Vipers going around the world.

I had set myself a few hours over the next 2 days to trace the 'sync-wire', not knowing what to try next!

Aside from getting her started again, I'd be keen on putting the anti-theft system into 'retirement'.

My email address is: [email protected]

I will also send a text to your phone, mindful of the 8/16hr time difference.

Cheers and chat soon.
 
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MelbourneVipers

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Steve Indy is a legend, thank you for saving another Viper sir! I'm very happy to have my car going again, and also to feel part of the community. Cheers man!
 

andywylde

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Thank you guys so much. I haven't been driving my car a while, and my cool Sneaky Pete Key broke in half so I put the fob somewhere ... who knows where. I got tired of looking for it and I bought a couple off of eBay and was able to ground the green wire and train the new fobs. I personaly wasn't sure if you had to keep the green wire grounded or just ground and release, but it appears you need to keep it grounded while you activate the remote. I definitely breathed a sigh of relief to hear the familiar click and horn honk!

The only thing that I can't seem to to is train a second remote. It isn't the end of the world, but after this experience I would like to have a spare. I have tried multiple permutations (training both at the same time, training one then removing the ground and reapplying it, etc.) but it seems to just ignore the second remote once the first is trained. I know they both work as I can train either one, but the first one trained is the only one that works. Maybe I am pushing too many buttons on the remote before training the second one?

If anyone has any hints on training the second one I would appreciate it but for now I am going to clean up the car and go for a drive .... its been a while.
 

Steve-Indy

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Hi, Andy...hopefully I may have a suggestion or two for you.
As there are slight procedural differences between some years, what year is your Viper?

For Gen I Vipers, you hold down only one of the two buttons ( lock or unlock) to program. On Gen II Vipers, you hold BOTH the lock and unlock buttons to program.

Before starting, be SURE that the fobs have new batteries that are properly mounted (not upside down) and that the internal contacts are clean and engaged...and, that the two halves of the fob are completely and fully snapped back together.

Furthermore, the Viper's battery needs to be fully charged...with the alarm OFF.

As to the grounding...yes...the ground needs to be continuous throughout the programming process. Once the ground is established, turn the ignition on to "run", then program first fob (if successful, you should hear the horn beep) then promptly lay it aside without pushing any more buttons. Do the same with the second fob...the horn beep should confirm success. At that point, turn ignition off, disc I next ground.

Now, test fob one at a time. If, while standing very close to the car (or in it), the fob gets no response from the car (beep, flash of lights, alarm set light), try to resync that fob by holding BOTH the lock and unlock buttons down for 8-10 seconds while listening/watching for a response. Do the same with second fob.

IF you end up with one fob not working, test fob for signal output. A locksmith often has the tool...as do dealerships and tire shops. My Autel TPS reader/programmer has this function.

If you need to discuss this further, just call me.

Good luck.
 

andywylde

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Thank you very much Steve. I think both Fobs are good as I could program one or the other but not both. From your response I was probably pushing too many buttons. Its a 1994 Gen 1, BTW.

Battery is fully charged thanks to a drive today, even though I keep a tricle chargeer on it most of the time if I am not driving it every day anyway. Alarm is off (Finally!)

So it seems the unlock made a "click" and the lock made the horn honk. So I pressed one then the other. Maybe that was my undoing. I will pull the panel off again tomorrow and try your suggestions.

When you say call you, I'm not clear how to do that or get your information to do so. I don't think I need to, but you obviously know a lot about these cars.

Unrelated to this is that your car in our signature? Looks like a GTSR as far as I can tell. I have a White/Blue Stripe GTSR that looks very similar (no 36 I think and not the one I am working on right now) i bought from a friend but I need to ship it out here from Alabama. He is keeping it there for me. Its a sweet car. That's always been one of my favorites.
 

Steve-Indy

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Hi, Andy...hopefully both fobs will program on your upcoming attempt. My number is in my first post within this thread if you need it...317-402-9013.

The car in my avatar is Wife's 2001 GTS...with custom stripes painted by Woodhouse prior to delivery. She wanted the blue stripes to match the blue in my 97 GTS.

CONGRATS on the GTSR...an all time favorite !!

By the way, the instructions that I posted above were adapted from a posting about 20 years ago by IN/KY Member "Ron"...who diligently ferretted out all of this info and put it into a workable format. THANKS, again Ron !!
 
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AussieVenom

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Hi Steve, I am experiencing the same issue with the immobiliser. I see your phone number - just making sure its ok for me to call and if so when suits?
Thanks in advance.
Mat
 

Steve-Indy

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Still awaiting your call, Mat. Thought that you might have solved issue.

If it is a time difference situation, let say that the above mentioned phone is turned on at 6 AM Eastern Daylight Time(EDT...same as New York City)..and turned off at 9 PM EDT. I hope this helps.
 

tednphx

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As for FOB functioning, places like ACE hardware have self test devices for FOBs. I had a problem programming a second FOB until I disconnected the car battery for 15 minutes. Upon reconnection programming was successful.
 

Mr Diesel

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Hi, I recently bought a 1994 gen1 Rt/10 without remote for the alarm.
I found a remote from a fellow Viper enthousiast and want to give it a try to pair the alarm system.
My car is an european spec, i dont know if it makes a difference.
How can i get advise on the pairing?
Thx,
Gert
 

Goggles Pizano

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But he is in Europe. If the car is built for Europe market it might has a different fob frequency as in the US it has to be registered with FCC.
 

axelererafond

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Hello Steve, I'm having a problem syncing my keys, and I think you're the man for the job! Can I contact you to discuss this with you?
 

Steve-Indy

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axelererafond, when I posted my response to you, I had not noticed that you are located in France. You have my apologies.

If it is better for you, contact me by email and describe exactly what the problem is with your Viper. I may be able to help via email once I better understand your situation. My address is: [email protected]

While it may take a phone call at some point, an initial email discussion may minimize and phone call expense.
 

axelererafond

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Hello Steve, thanks for your answer and to take time to help me. To start, i will send you an email to describe my problem but after that i can call you.
 

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