71? Do I hear a 71? Does anyone know what fault code 71 is?

Sean 96 McViper

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I got a check a check engine light
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on Friday on the way home from work. It seemed to be idling a little rough on Friday, but I didn't notice anything really wrong. Any ideas on what could have caused it? I know there's not much to go on.

Also, does anyone know of any good places to take a snake for service in the Philadelphia area? I live in the Newtown/Langhorne Area. Anyone had any good/bad experiences? I have not had to take my car in for service thus far.

Thanks Guys/Gals!
 

ACR Joe

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John Kerwin and Joe (?) are excellent Viper Techs at Barbera Dodge in Roxborough. Both have worked on my car and I have been quite pleased with their work, sensitivity and understanding.
 

Fast Viper Dan

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I've hade the check engine light come on two or three times.
The book said if the gas cap is loose or it lets air in or out you will get this light. My light went out after a few (100) miles. It may be more than that but if your oil presser is good and the temp is ok you might try driving with care and see if the light goes out. Any of the smog devices will also set of the light but should not cause any damage. Good luck and have your tec look at it if it stays on.
Dan
 
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Sean 96 McViper

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I did the turn the key on and off three times thing, and got the following code after counting the blinking "check engine" light... I think it's either 3571 or 358. Does anyone know what this code means?

-Sean
 

ACR Joe

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I have a 99 shop manual.

PO358 - Ignition coil #8 primary circuit. Description - Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time (high impedance).

3571 does not exist.

Hope this helps. Good luck .....
 

Sean Roe

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Using the check engine light flashing yeilds two digit codes, no more.

code 12 = flash, short pause, flash, flash, long pause, next code starts.
 
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Sean 96 McViper

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Yes, I just found a few places on the net that list these codes...
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
71 ???? Could not find it!
55 End of codes

The MAP sensor is in the air box correct?
 

NCVCA

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All these codes mean your car is very very fast and will beat any car manufactured in the year ending with the two digit code being displayed.

You are likely to see many many different codes before they are done.

Jeff
 

MES

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Humm no code 71 is in the 97 service manual. Do you have a GTS? I don't think their is a code 71. If you got the 71 wrong the other codes may also be wrong. Best thing to do is to take it in and have it checked. The check engine light will usually come on if you have an emissions related problem like a o2 sensor or cats. So its usually not a big deal if you don't take it in right away. The only other way is to get a ODB II scan tool and read it yourself, costs about $250 but can give you a much more specific code.
 

Rich Carlson

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Ok, here we go for basic Fuel Injection 101. The reason you could not find the code list is because the source you where looking at does not know that ther are two different PCM's that are used in 1996. The RT/10 uses a SBEC controller and the 1996 GTS uses a JTEC controller. In every day terms, that means: different controllers = different circuits = different codes. The code 71 means that there is a problem with the auxiliary 5 volt power supply output. The voltage is to low. This is usually a JTEC code but the SBEC could be displaying a HEX code 71 in error. I am not sure which model vehicle you have.
 
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Sean 96 McViper

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Rich,
You are correct, I have a 96 RT/10. Thanks for the info. I checked the light several times and I believe the codes I have are correct.

-Sean
 
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Sean 96 McViper

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Thanks Joe and Sean for the info.

Ok if the flashing light gives you 2 digit codes, I believe I have it right this time...

12
14
71
55 <-- I'm not sure if this is a real code or just a signal to tell you that there are no more codes.

Do THESE mean anthing to anybody?

Thanks again!
 

RobHook

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Sean, I don't know if you've fixed this problem already but I just got the exact same error codes on my '94 RT/10. I may have interpreted the 71 as a 17 though. 17 is "engine cold too long" which is the computer trying to warn you of a stuck-open thermostat. 14 is, of course, a problem with the MAP sensor. I disconnected the MAP sensor and found that one of the prongs for the plug is completely corroded away. If you haven't solved this already, check your MAP sensor connection. The MAP sensor is the small black rectangular box connected to the rear part of the left intake manifold runner. It's held on with two torx screws and has a small rubber L-shaped connector running into the bottom of it from inside the intake. Lift the clip on the wire connector and pull the plug out. I'll bet you'll find that it is full of white crud and the left-most prong is damaged or completely gone (as mine is).

This wire, by the way, then goes to the engine temperature sensor which explains the code 17 (if it's really there).

Clean the pluug, replace the MAP sensor (about 90 bucks from a dealer) and you'll probably be ok. Total time: 5 minutes.

By the way, the engine is going to be in limp home mode as long as this circuit is screwed up. Don't drive it any more than you have to.

--Rob
 
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