Accusump port Gen2

Goggles Pizano

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Suggestions? I have a new unit sitting around.

1. Use the light oil pressure sensor port with a T. I used that port already to prime the engine in the past and the pressure gauge does go up as I primed it with the the primer tank when I drained the oil.

2. Y into the oil cooler/filter housing tubing (this was my first thought but didn't have all the fitting for the accusump) and modify the filter housing internal valve at the same time if I can with out needing to remove the housing from the block.

I had been starting the car once a week after doing #1, but some personal BS has happened and I haven't started it in ~2 years. Hopefully the cylinder walls are not f'd up. I might have to borescope them if you guys think I should. I'm thinking about manually turning the crank before starting it again.

Yes I can pull the plugs and relay and just crank it, but I rather not rotate stuff until I know (try) there is at least a film of oil on stuff. Even though it is new oil with a Wix filter (I know about the anti-drain valve on filters) when I done #1.

I'm already PO'd about the BS and this just adds to it.
 

GTS Dean

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This post is worthless without pictures, or diagrams.

If you're worried about cylinder walls, pour 1oz of Marvel oil in each cylinder and leave the plugs out. Use a 32mm socket on a breakover bar under the car and roll the engine over slowly by hand in neutral with some paper towels stuffed in the plug heat shields. Make about 4-6 rotations and screw the plugs back in.
 

Viper Specialty

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You cant use the oil cooler line on a Gen-2 unless its an ACR or you have an ACR Oil Filter Adapter. The shuttle valve blocks off the cooler ports. Use the sensor or light w/Tee.

Your cylinder walls should be fine unless they were wiped/sprayed with degreaser before it sat for 2 years, or the plugs were out/super humid/insert other major contributor here. I have had blocks sit on the shelf disassembled and near dry for a decade with no rust that wouldn't wipe right out, and bought blocks out of humid warehouses that were nearly the same. Running engines are full of oil vapor and do an extremely good job of protecting parts.

Just turn by hand with key OFF enough to make sure its not locked up, then start as normal.
 
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Goggles Pizano

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@GTS Dean Not around the car but will do diagrams or fast photochopping.

@Viper Specialty i was going to modify the shuttle valve in the adapter as I states in point 2.

Car has been sitting in a heated/cooled garage with plugs still in place.

I have a borescope and will pull the plugs, look into them and manually rotate like mentioned when I get back there.
 

Viper Specialty

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i was going to modify the shuttle valve in the adapter as I states in point 2.

You really dont want to do that. Defeats the entire purpose of the original adapter. More effective to port the sump in elsewhere.

We used to sell Accusump packages back in... 2002. I feel old.
 
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Goggles Pizano

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@98-WC-GTS Yes I seen those years ago, but that really does nothing but cost 10x more for something you can get a Y fitting for since ours cars, the housing and cooler that has cooler lines you screw into. Plus the added depth to the filter.

@Viper Specialty yes I am aware of the non ACR housing design and how the shuttle valve works. That at lower oil pressure (below cracking pressure of shuttle valve spring), the cooler is bypassed. Lower oil pressure = at idle/low rpms usually oil at operating temperature/operating viscosity.

Is your concern that oil now is going through the cooler at 100% of the time hence taking longer to get up of operating temperature or for the AC or ?

I was debating on where to put it and was looking at T and Y fitting for the cooler lines and finding out fitting sizes on the oil adapter, lines, etc.
I already bought a T last year to do point 1 if I decided to that as it was only a couple of bucks and I used that port to prime and engine before.
 

GTS Dean

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I believe you want to use the rear-most port on the block near the dipstick tube. It flows directly to the cam and mains. The thread looks to be 3/8" NPT and the sensor connector on mine is green. I would put the Accusump on the run side and the sensor on the branch.
 
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Goggles Pizano

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I believe you want to use the rear-most port on the block near the dipstick tube. It flows directly to the cam and mains. The thread looks to be 3/8" NPT and the sensor connector on mine is green. I would put the Accusump on the run side and the sensor on the branch.
That is the one I used to prime and referred to in point 1.
And yes, 3/8" NPT (I have T already bought).

Found pic from other site.

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Viper Specialty

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@Viper Specialty yes I am aware of the non ACR housing design and how the shuttle valve works. That at lower oil pressure (below cracking pressure of shuttle valve spring), the cooler is bypassed. Lower oil pressure = at idle/low rpms usually oil at operating temperature/operating viscosity.

Is your concern that oil now is going through the cooler at 100% of the time hence taking longer to get up of operating temperature or for the AC or ?

Drilling the shuttle to allow oil flow to the cooler at all times is effectively knocking on the ACR Oil Filter's door. The whole point of the standard adapter was to keep the oil cooler cool and thus improve the AC performance at low speeds.

Secondarily, or primarily depending on how you look at it... drilling the shuttle also results in the opposite effect: oil is bypassed even when you *want* it to go through the cooler. 2-way street.

Far simpler to leave it alone and use the warning light gallery tap thats already there.
 

GTS Dean

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I found this photo of Darrin Ellis's VRL Gen 2 car with Accusump. I don't know where the smaller line with the 180* elbow goes off to. The fitting at the rear of the engine is for the fire bottle, not connected to that line. Very nice plumbing work overall.
 

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