Blackstone results, Thoughts ?

sirhc76

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First time to send my results to Blackstone. Some background-Car has 36k on it now, almost had it a year and have done oil changes every 3k. I flushed all fluids when I bought the car last December. I recently changed the thermostat, pulled and flushed the radiator and block via drain plugs. During this job I added an anode cap and refilled coolant with a 70/30, water to antifreeze when filled. Car runs fine and doesn’t appear to consume antifreeze. I dynod in April at 429, filter and high flows only. My results are attached what should I be looking for from these results?

Thanks,
 

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dave6666

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The business that I am in - the day job - is ultrapure chemicals for microelectronics. We deal with contamination issues like, well, always. First thing we do when we get a lab result suggesting a big or potentially expensive problem to solve?

Re-sample.
 
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sirhc76

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Agreed, Thanks Dave. I'll take another sample and send it in for comparison. Would it be a more accurate comparison if I allowed the same mileage on my current oil fill as the previous test? Im currently around 1500 miles on this change and don’t want to sku the sample.

Thanks,

Chris
 

dave6666

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You would certainly want an accumulation period to transpire. The contaminants they referenced as suspect are not volatiles, and should accumulate over time. Testing fresh oil would tell you how good Mobil 1 is, not what your car is doing to it.

Their recommendation of 1500 miles per oil change for now is probably a good starting point for the re-sampling.

So anyway, if needed, looking forward to showing up for beers, burgers, and some head gasket work.
 

dave6666

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Also... I think it's Tom that usually mentions testing your coolant for combustion gases/byproducts if you suspect a head gasket leak. Don't know where you might find a tester like that, but might be a worthy step.

I think the timing cover can also cause cross contamination, but without the combustion gasses/byproducts.

Edit... Yes I do...

Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector LIS75500

It'll look good next to those refrigeration gages that Ryan loves to gawk at.
 

got one

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Also... I think it's Tom that usually mentions testing your coolant for combustion gases/byproducts if you suspect a head gasket leak. Don't know where you might find a tester like that, but might be a worthy step.

I think the timing cover can also cause cross contamination, but without the combustion gasses/byproducts.

Edit... Yes I do...

Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector LIS75500

It'll look good next to those refrigeration gages that Ryan loves to gawk at.

Dave, that was one time...along time ago..i needed money for college...

Chris, would be interested in doing analysis on my Viper's fluids as well. What would be the process in something like this as I have never done this or now anyone who has done this before? Maybe we can do a write up afterwards for the folks at quarterly publish later????
 

Steve-Indy

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Actually, I'd favor possible timing cover gasket leak...RETEST ASAP and if reading are confirmed, explore timing chain cover gasket and change it now...common problem 96-98 Vipers (more common than headgasket in stock car)...easy and cheap to do compared to other problems/consequences/solutions.
 
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sirhc76

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I have another sample on its way to Blackstone. Reading up timing chain cover gasket replacement, some nice threads here that will assist if this is the issue. A friend mentioned that I should run a leakdown test while waiting for the results, sentiments on that?

Thanks,
 

dave6666

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I have another sample on its way to Blackstone. Reading up timing chain cover gasket replacement, some nice threads here that will assist if this is the issue. A friend mentioned that I should run a leakdown test while waiting for the results, sentiments on that?

Thanks,

I've always wondered about leakdown tests. Like, should you do this test outside the sliding glass doors to the local burn center or not. Because, a "good" leakdown test should be done at normal engine operating temperature. Yikes. Nothing like getting your hands and fingers exposed to that. Also, you're supposed to pull the plugs on a COLD engine. So get a box of Band-aids and let us know your thoughts!

Really though, I do remember someone saying they did it "luke warm." I suppose that would be like get it hot and let it cool for an hour or so.

Would it be rude if I just stood there with my iced down 12-pack and a jumbo can of burn spray barking instructions and tips?
 
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sirhc76

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I have gloves that should alleviate that problem. I was also questioning the amount of minerals indicative of antifreeze and the lack of water in the oil. My guess is that the water is evaporating due to the heat of the oil? It appears there are other minerals that were high in comparison to the "averages" for my motor. In looking at my oil it doesn’t appear to have any water in it, the stuff comes out nice and black, not milky, understanding that is a sight test only. I know that before I got the car the previous owner had issues with the oil pan sealing and had that and I believe the timing chain cover off. I need to dig back though his posts and see what I can find. Sadly it appears he doesn’t post on the board any longer and I couldn’t get a reply to *** when I initially tried.

I had plans to do roller rockers and rods over my Christmas vacation, looks like Ill have more fun lined up prior to that.

Thanks all,

Chris
 

01RedCognacRT

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Just received my report as well. My info for comparison with Mobil 1 and a 5000k mileage change. I'll likely change at 3k for the next few...
 

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Steve 00RT/10

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I don't think 25 PPM of iron is necessarily high for your engine. Deviations from norm are more important

As for a potential slight timing cover gasket leak , look for any crusty antifreeze crud around the perimeter of the cover. You need to get your head right in there and look from underneath as well. A very slight leak will not show a wet area as the engine heat dries it up

Steve
 
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sirhc76

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Ok I thought I had read it correctly when going back through posts from the previous owner. I can’t confirm this is the car although from every post I have read it matches. Since I purchased the car from a dealer who bought it at auction I can only guess this is the same car. I know the person’s name matches his screen name as It was printed on the ticket I got on my way home from picking the car up. I also know that It came from the same city that the previous owner lived in, so it’s not a total shot in the dark.

This is what I found from a previous post of his.

Had the same problem. New pan, new gasket, fixed timing chain cover and replaced all the gaskets, even added RTV to the bolts. Oil leak stopped temperarly but always returned. It would stop and then gradually start leaking more and more until oil would eventually spray on the back of my car and all over the bottom. Hated it so much that I ended up selling her. It drove me crazy. After 2 years of it, I couldn't take it. I feel your pain!

I have no oil leaks now, I know this is not the stock pan and it appears the timing chain cover has been off at some point. How would I confirm/negate that the culprit might actually be the timing chain cover gasket without removal or is that the only method. From the previous owners post I'm starting to think heads again.

Thanks,


Chris
 
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sirhc76

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New results. I ran a compression test with a warm motor and all cylinders were between 178-180. Leakdown test to come this weekend. I think I'm due for a pan and timing chain cover pull to see if the leak is there.
 

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PDCjonny

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I have had oil leaks in both my '98 and '97 and both were from the timing chain cover gasket. In fact, as I write this my '97 is at Tators having that fixed along with some other things. It is VERY common issue with those years. It was only a few tiny drops on the driveway after a ride barely noticable.
 

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