Brake bleed

[ViperBite]

During the Christmas holiday I am replacing my front and rear rotor/pads/calipers and installing SS brake lines.

I have bled brakes before but not when I have replaced as much as I am this time. So when it is all buttoned up do I start the bleed/flush process at the RR then LR/RF/LF or do I start in reverse order?

Another question, I was looking over my brakes just to make sure I had everything for this and I tried to remove my front pads. I never did get one side out. Do you use something to force the pad away from the rotor? What do you use or do you have any other tips here.

TIA

 

[opnwide]

If you're replacing rotors, why not just pull the calipers off all at once. This way you won't have to worry about scuffing the rotor with a screwdriver or something. If you're replacing pads and rotors anyway, then go ahead and start prying. It can be done without damage to anything, if you know where to push....

 

[ViperBite]

This time the pads will come with the calipers. However if I decide to replace the pads for tracking is there an easier way than "prying" them out?

 

[carguy07]

There used to be a thread that walked you through the process. I can't seem to find it. Here is a link to the pics that go with the thread.

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4111847&a=30671577&sp=1&showall=true

 

[ViperBite]

Thanks, however photo seven shows (implies)how just a "danty" amount of effort is required to remove the pads.

Well, I am sure I will learn by doing in about week.

I am more concerned about the brake fluid bleeding. Giving it more thought, I wonder if I am better off doing the bleeding as I complete a wheel rather than doing it after I replace all the parts on all four wheels.

 

[Gavin]

Complete all four wheels, then bleed in the sequency you correctly stated.
Those of us that race our cars pull the brake assemblies apart to inspect after every race weekend.

If you are just getting into tracking your car I suggest you at least pull the wheels after a track weekend and look for weeping piston seals, leaking bleeders, fluid anywhere that you would not expect it. Don't read this and think - "wow is the stock stuff going to fail - nope it is generally very reliable but remember - stopping is the most important thing you do - obviously - so you always check the stopping equipment - its the best way to keep you and the guys around you safe.

My experience is all the stock stuff holds up real well, to a point. The 'point' being when you start messing with the stock stuff and changing it - but that another story.

At a minimum you need Motul 600 brake fluid - available on the interent or most motorcyle shops carry it.

Bleed your brakes after every track weekend

If you are going to run a racing compound brake pad don't use them on the street if you do more than very limited driving.
They are designed to run very hot. On the street they run cold and will chew out your rotors fairly quickly.

 

[FrankBarba]

I never had to pry any brake parts on my viper. No screw drivers at all. bleed right rear first, left rear, right front, left front.

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

Bleed brakes "BEFORE" each track event, the idea is to have CLEAN dry fluid.

 

[Jack B]

Do yourself a favor and install the speed bleeders. It makes the process a one person operation and cuts the time down dramtically.

 

[Mark Hahn]

Better than the Speed Bleeders is to purchase a Motive Power bleeder and the Master cylinder adapter kit. While your at it might as well purchase the cap for the clutch too. Easier on your Master cylinder without all of the pumping. When you pump bleed your brakes by pumping the pedal, you tend to push it past the normal place where it has been used. This portion can tend to have some oxidation/corrosion/roughness from moisture in the fluid and can accelerate seal wear causing pre-mature Master cylinder failure. Pretty much all professionals will recommend pressure bleeding. It is faster, easier on the system, and more assured of getting all air out. MGH

 

[ViperBite]

Thanks for the info. I just bought the Motive Power bleeder so that should help make this easier. Wifey does not enjoy sitting in the car pushing the pedal anymore.

I guess I will go get another set of jack stands so I can have all four wheels off at the same time. Do you guys lift the front or rear first to place the jack stands? On my prior cars I could lift the rear from one point. As I understand the Viper I can't lift either end from one jack point, is this true?

Thanks again for the info.

 

[Gavin]

Put the back up first
This lets you get the jack under the jacking point behind the front wheel

Remember- replace the stock fluid with Motul 600 and bleed the brakes after your track weekend - if you get any 'soft pedal or fade' get off the track, the next corner the pedal will go to the floor. Cool the car off and you have to bleed the brakes before going back out.
The paedla will feel fine if you don't bleed, but it ain't gonna last.

 

[FrankBarba]

I am the minority here. Don't waste your $$$ on Motul 600, for what you are doing you will be just fine using the BMW High Performace brake fluid. You can purchse this at your local BMW Dealer.