Brake Dust Test results are in

TheOldViperMan

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I purchased and installed new ceramic pads on my 2009 Viper.
I installed Red Stuff pads on the front, and Hawk on the rear.
All wheels had less dust than the stock pads.
A whole lot less.
But the rear wheels had even less dust that the front.
I understand that the main braking is on the front, so there will be more dust.
The front pads started screeching when braking at slow speeds near final stop.
I then took the Red Stuff pads off, and installed Hawk pads on the front.
This resulted in less dust on the front, and no more screeching.
Almost the same dust as the rear wheels w/Hawks.
Then I plugged the round hole that furnishes air from the front, lower grill.
I plugged the passenger side only, to compare dust.
I realize that this air is necessary to cool the brakes, but after a 30 minute drive, with steady stop and go, the results were surprisingly positive.
The passenger front wheel had about 90% LESS DUST.
Checking with a digital thermometer, there was only 4 degrees difference in the heat at the brakes.
The plug, as pictured can easily be removed for hard braking conditions, like racing.
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1bad540

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Great results, how was the braking power compared to stock??
 

Real_Venom

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I bought the Red Stuff pads myself hoping they would lower the brake dust amount. IMO they haven't helped much over the stock as for amount of dust I seem to clean off the rims. I've heard some good things about the Hawks for everyday driving is what I use my Viper for. Where did you get that plug from? Thank you for the write up.
 
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TheOldViperMan

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I bought the Red Stuff pads myself hoping they would lower the brake dust amount. IMO they haven't helped much over the stock as for amount of dust I seem to clean off the rims. I've heard some good things about the Hawks for everyday driving is what I use my Viper for. Where did you get that plug from? Thank you for the write up.
Yes, the Hawks do the trick. Be sure to apply the "anti-screech" grease to the back of the pads. Not sure why that grease works, but since it is recommended I put it on.
The plug is a 3" test plug form The Home Depot @ $4.21.
 

Brian GTS

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Hey, that's a great write up! Ever since my issue with the Reds years ago, I have switched to Hawk pads on my cars.....love them. That was a clever idea to plug that hole and interesting the temp difference is so little. I'm sure on the track would be different like you said.

Thanks again!
 
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TheOldViperMan

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One more note about my break dust test.
Even when switching to Hawk pads, and plugging the air flow from the grille, there is still a small amount of dust.
To eliminate some of this dust, there is a product called Rejex. It's a soil barrier. After coating the wheels following the instructions, less dust will stick to the wheels.
BillyC
 

palindrome

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I used Hawk pads on my C5 Corvette for 7 years. The same set! Drove then for 70k miles and never had an issue. I did install slotted and drilled rotors at the same time. Best pads ever but be liberal with the anti-sqweeling grease.
 
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TheOldViperMan

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I used Hawk pads on my C5 Corvette for 7 years. The same set! Drove then for 70k miles and never had an issue. I did install slotted and drilled rotors at the same time. Best pads ever but be liberal with the anti-sqweeling grease.
I have asked several techs and even a few old timer mechanics about that grease. No one seems to know why that stuff works.
I know it works, but it drives my crazy not knowing why?
BillyC
 

mufflerguy

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It dampens the vibration from the pads when you apply the brakes. You should also apply brake lube to all metal to metal contact points, except where the pad material comes in contact with the rotor, obviously.
If you didnt put the anti squeal on the backs of the pads, within 5000 miles, you could remove the pads and see rust/bare metal spots starting to form where the caliper contacts the pad. I have owned an auto repair shop for over 20 years, and I have seen this step skipped by do it yourselfers, and we end up re doing the job correctly.
This is one key to a squeak free brake job.
 
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TheOldViperMan

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It dampens the vibration from the pads when you apply the brakes. You should also apply brake lube to all metal to metal contact points, except where the pad material comes in contact with the rotor, obviously.
If you didnt put the anti squeal on the backs of the pads, within 5000 miles, you could remove the pads and see rust/bare metal spots starting to form where the caliper contacts the pad. I have owned an auto repair shop for over 20 years, and I have seen this step skipped by do it yourselfers, and we end up re doing the job correctly.
This is one key to a squeak free brake job.

CRAP! That makes sense. I thought the noise was the pads on the rotor. It's the metal contact on the caliper and back of the pad. Thank you soo much. Now I feel like an idiot - AGAIN!
 

mufflerguy

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Well, Sometimes , depending on the brand of pad, you can also get some noise from the pad material, especially if there is a heavy metal content in the pad, like heavy duty truck pads, or racing pads...
 

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