Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Question: What's the only fluid in the car that doesn't get pumped, slung, or circulated so that it can cool off? Brake fluid. But the NASCAR guys have found a way to do it, and with a little do-it-yourself work, you can have it, too.
The idea itself is patented, so you can read about it here and also here. In layman's terms, their operation is described about half way down this page. The valve itself costs $139 from www.cvproducts.com
You'll also need three flex brake lines for the fluid return. I measured out (and successfully used) two 22" and one 42" length on my Gen 1, which cost about $11-$13 per line. You'll need a "t" fitting and some other small hardware, which for me came up to about $90.
The difficult part is that you have to make one of these yourself, since you can't buy them for Viper Brembo calipers. It was easy (using an 8" metric line, bending to fit) then silver solder a -3 fitting in the right place. Obviously you want to make sure it's leakproof, headed in a direction so the brake line doesn't rub, and stiff enough that it doesn't break off. (Hint: solder on the fitting first, then drill the hole through the fitting and into the tube.) I made mine more like the one on page 36 (bottom right corner) of this catalog.
Here's a diagram of the setup; I have the fluid inlet in the stock location and the exit at the two bleeder valves, as in diagram 1. If anyone can tell me why diagram 2 is better, please explain it to me. (Does the outside of the caliper get hotter than the inside by that much?)
Do-it-yourself types that don't mind playing with the brakes can do this for $250 or so, if you want to go to someone that's done it before, then Woodhouse can sell it to you.
The other "cool" thing is that now you can bleed all four screw locations at once by removing the return line to the valve. Any questions, let me know. I've had mine on since May, and haven't had a front boil issue at all.
The idea itself is patented, so you can read about it here and also here. In layman's terms, their operation is described about half way down this page. The valve itself costs $139 from www.cvproducts.com
You'll also need three flex brake lines for the fluid return. I measured out (and successfully used) two 22" and one 42" length on my Gen 1, which cost about $11-$13 per line. You'll need a "t" fitting and some other small hardware, which for me came up to about $90.
The difficult part is that you have to make one of these yourself, since you can't buy them for Viper Brembo calipers. It was easy (using an 8" metric line, bending to fit) then silver solder a -3 fitting in the right place. Obviously you want to make sure it's leakproof, headed in a direction so the brake line doesn't rub, and stiff enough that it doesn't break off. (Hint: solder on the fitting first, then drill the hole through the fitting and into the tube.) I made mine more like the one on page 36 (bottom right corner) of this catalog.
Here's a diagram of the setup; I have the fluid inlet in the stock location and the exit at the two bleeder valves, as in diagram 1. If anyone can tell me why diagram 2 is better, please explain it to me. (Does the outside of the caliper get hotter than the inside by that much?)
Do-it-yourself types that don't mind playing with the brakes can do this for $250 or so, if you want to go to someone that's done it before, then Woodhouse can sell it to you.
The other "cool" thing is that now you can bleed all four screw locations at once by removing the return line to the valve. Any questions, let me know. I've had mine on since May, and haven't had a front boil issue at all.
