Coolant and purging air (again)

[PDCjonny]

I know this has been covered before but could someone once and for all put in simple terms the best way to burp the coolant system. My car has been running a little hot of late, even in the dead of winter. It was only about 25 out today, and yet when I was stopped at a light or just going around town by temp gauge was higher than normal, at alwast 210 or more. I know this fluctuates often but I usually am never this hot, not withstanding the cold air.

Anyway, I check the coolant over flow bottle and it was empty. So I pulled the over flow hose up by the "radiator" and added coolant with a turkey baster till it finally crept up to the lower hash mark on the viewing gauge. But should I burp the system now? I did have the "radiator" cover off as well to check the level. I printed out Jon B's instructions on the "how to" pages but it didn't work. He doesn't mention it, but I assume the car has to be running so when the temp gauge is turned fully to hot it drains into the system. If the car is not running, the system does not drain out of the coolant receptacle, at least mine didn't. So right now I have the overflow bottle filled to the lower hashmark. When I ran the car the coolant level only dropped about 3/4" in the tank. How do I get the system functiong at peak performance?

 

[Joseph Dell]

Go to autozone and get a coolant pressure tester tool. they do "loan-a-tool" on this nifty gadget which is, essentially, a pump.

put it on the radatior cap, pressurize, now here comes the tricky part:

find the highest point of a colling hose on the motor... either by the passenger side (right below the wiper motor on that side) or the thermostat housing. loosen (VERY SLOWLY) the screw and air will rush out. that is, of course, until there is no more air in the system.

enjoy!

JD

 

[TampaViper]

Is that it, seems way too simple. I guess there is no need to jack the front or run the car, since the pump pressurizes the air to the leak valve you describe. Does anyone else do it this way?

 

[Joseph Dell]

This isn't the "formal" way to do it, but this is a great way to do it that works impressively well and fast. this is a little JD secret that i now reveal to the world...

JD

 

[J DAWG]

yes you can use the bleeder screw at the thermostat housing and since it is before the thermostat the car doesnt have to be running or hot enuf to open it.

just fill the reservoir up until the water comes out there and then you can get it all out the way JD describes and make sure the overflow bottle is filled.

 

[Joseph Dell]

that is the cool part about this... you can do it w/o the car running. don't forget to put your heat in the "on" position, though!

I forgot about that bleeder screw...i gotta try that this time around...

JD

 

[418viper]

make sure you circulated coolant through your heater core also

 

[PDCjonny]

This isn't the "formal" way to do it, but this is a great way to do it that works impressively well and fast. this is a little JD secret that i now reveal to the world...

So aside from Joe's excellent suggestion, what is the "formal" way?

 

[Blade Runner]

I'm not sure what year your car is but the problem might be the water pump. I had the same thing on my car. It would sometimes run fine and then it would heat up and blow the coolant out the puke tube.

 

[Newport Viper]

Just talked to JonB.

IT IS A TWO PERSON JOB!

Of course this is mentioned nowhere that I ever read it. When you squeeze the upper hose and the coolant and bubbles overflow, before letting loose, have someone refill the tank to the top then release slowly. Or, you will just **** the air you just squeezed out back into the tank.


He also said it could take up to 20 squeeze's to get it done.

 

[PDCjonny]

But the car has to be running, right??? That is not mentioned. Turning the heater gauge on all the way does nothing if the car is off.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

But the car has to be running, right???

No.

 

[trainville]

Wouldn't the Roe radiator hoses with bleeder valve be the simplest way to do it? I bought a set but haven't installed them yet. I would think you could install a little valve like that in your existing upper hose. Then you would just crack the seal a little until air stops hissing through. Thoughts?

 

[Jay Herbert]

I know this has been covered before but could someone once and for all put in simple terms the best way to burp the coolant system. My car has been running a little hot of late, even in the dead of winter. It was only about 25 out today, and yet when I was stopped at a light or just going around town by temp gauge was higher than normal, at alwast 210 or more. I know this fluctuates often but I usually am never this hot, not withstanding the cold air.

Anyway, I check the coolant over flow bottle and it was empty. So I pulled the over flow hose up by the "radiator" and added coolant with a turkey baster till it finally crept up to the lower hash mark on the viewing gauge. But should I burp the system now? I did have the "radiator" cover off as well to check the level. I printed out Jon B's instructions on the "how to" pages but it didn't work. He doesn't mention it, but I assume the car has to be running so when the temp gauge is turned fully to hot it drains into the system. If the car is not running, the system does not drain out of the coolant receptacle, at least mine didn't. So right now I have the overflow bottle filled to the lower hashmark. When I ran the car the coolant level only dropped about 3/4" in the tank. How do I get the system functiong at peak performance?

The sequence is critical.... Squeeze hose.... bubbles will burp into fender top bottle (cap must be off, I'm guessing this is what you are callign the radiator cap)), and you will see it's level lower, fill it up a little, repeat (many times). When you get no more bubbles, make sure to do this:

"Now, if needed, refill the overflow facia bottle to the "COLD" level by forcing coolant down the surge tank overflow hose. A turkey baster also works great for this! (If the facia bottle was TOO full, you'll have to work a siphon tube in through the rubber fenderwell donut hole.) Now, fill the surge tank to full, and cap it tightly. Then, squeeze the radiator overflow hose once more, firmly, to complete the siphon between engine, surge tank, and overflow bottle. You can actually feel, see, and hear the siphon action begin, as coolant flows from the motor, to surge tank, to facia bottle. The system is now FULL..and AIRLESS!"

This is the "Big Sucking Sound" Ross Perot used to talk about

Or, an easier (sort of) is to put on some Roe Racing silicone hoses on (that have a bleeder screw in them at the highest point)..... They work GREAT, and I'd bet the hoses on most Vipers are way over do for a change anyway.


Another option is one of these: Bleeder Kit

The price has changed, but I think he still makes them when asked.

A Viper tech told me that you can just keep filling the fender bottle AND over flow tank.... and run around with the heater on and system will fill. Most forget about the overflow bottle behind the headlight, and the system draws in air... but, I had just done the Jon B. Burping thing until the Roe hoses were installed.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Wouldn't the Roe radiator hoses with bleeder valve be the simplest way to do it?

Yes. I bought mine from Archer.

Previously I had the bleeder valve insert kit Jay posted however I was always tightening the hose clamp to keep it from blowing off.

 

[PDCjonny]

A Viper tech told me that you can just keep filling the fender bottle AND over flow tank.... and run around with the heater on and system will fill. Most forget about the overflow bottle behind the headlight, and the system draws in air... but, I had just done the Jon B. Burping thing until the Roe hoses were installed.

Thanks Jay, that sums it up well. Really well designed the way you can't access the over flow bottle, can hardly read the "gauge" in front of the tire and you need a small flashlight and long arms to check it. Oh yeah, best to check it in the dark as well.

 

[Hissses]

Here is another idea. I use this vacuum system to **** down the system and then it will **** the coolant in with no air pockets. I would down load the picture but the link will half to do: (sorry) http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=66765&group_ID=12500

 

[Jay Herbert]

A Viper tech told me that you can just keep filling the fender bottle AND over flow tank.... and run around with the heater on and system will fill. Most forget about the overflow bottle behind the headlight, and the system draws in air... but, I had just done the Jon B. Burping thing until the Roe hoses were installed.

Thanks Jay, that sums it up well. Really well designed the way you can't access the over flow bottle, can hardly read the "gauge" in front of the tire and you need a small flashlight and long arms to check it. Oh yeah, best to check it in the dark as well.

Something else to keep in mind is that the hose running from the tank you "can see", to the tank you "cannot" see is not clamped on. On one of my cars the hose had cracked and come off the hidden tank. So rather than puking in the tank when hot, and sucking fluid back in when cool.... just got the puking (on the garage floor) part The lesson, to keep the air out, make sure the "cannot see" tank is at the right level and the hose is actually connected to the tank