Gas Cap - Left at Gas Station

mjguflaw

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I suspect I'm not the only one who had done this, but I left the plastic gas cap sitting at the gas station yesterday. Can someone tell me if this cap is a generic piece common to a lot of other cars and something I can replace at my local Autozone/Pep Boys, or are the dimensions somehow Viper specific. I don't want to drive all the way to my dealer and pay the "Viper" premium if I don't have to. Thanks in advance for the info.

Regards,
Mike
 

Simms

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Yep, get a lockable one from Autozone/Pep Boys/Napa etc. Someone on here has the part numbers.
 

VinR1

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...and leave the key IN the cap when you fill up (assuming its on the same keychain as your ignition key) - that way you cant start the car unless the gas cap is back in place and locked
 

Qualitywires.com

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I have done it millions of times...the stock cap has a groove in the center of it for clearence of the bolt on the onside of the cap.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Go back to the gas station and see if it's still there. You might be surprised.

My Uncle left a gas cap, drove off for a two week vacation, stopped at the same gas station on the way back and it was exactly where he left it. Not hard to believe really I mean, why would anyone remove it? You gotta know somebody left it and might come back for it.
 

SoCal Rebell

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I suspect I'm not the only one who had done this, but I left the plastic gas cap sitting at the gas station yesterday. Can someone tell me if this cap is a generic piece common to a lot of other cars and something I can replace at my local Autozone/Pep Boys, or are the dimensions somehow Viper specific. I don't want to drive all the way to my dealer and pay the "Viper" premium if I don't have to. Thanks in advance for the info.

Regards,
Mike



Are you sure you're not an AE for John (SSpeed Racer) Dearing? :D
 

VinR1

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Get the one from Advanced Autoparts (Type R). Guaranteed 10 horsepower over stock.
...thats a common misconception. The hp is only guaranteed if you apply the supplied Type R sticker
 
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mjguflaw

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Thanks all. Got the autozone one for $11. Works great. Unfortunately, as someone quite wisely pointed out, the lack of cap for several days triggered the check engine light. Also in a miraculous and unexplainable turn of events, the driver side power window also stopped working. Anyone care to elaborate on the quantum entanglement between the gas cap and power window mechanism? Heh....
 

3snakes

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SOME YRS. DO THAT YOU HAVE TO GO TO TO MY HOUSE I CAN DRIVE IT FOR A WEK . THIS WILL HELP SOMETIMES ? SORRY
 

VPRVENM97

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Thanks all. Got the autozone one for $11. Works great. Unfortunately, as someone quite wisely pointed out, the lack of cap for several days triggered the check engine light. Also in a miraculous and unexplainable turn of events, the driver side power window also stopped working. Anyone care to elaborate on the quantum entanglement between the gas cap and power window mechanism? Heh....

Uh yeah,,,that's easily explainable. The lack of the gas cap in and of itself would not necessarily adversely affect the operation of the power windows. However, in your case, since you turned the engine on and drove the car, you triggered the improper fluctuation of the muffler bearing. The proper synchronization of the muffler bearing with the alternator pump is crucial to the cam regulator timing. When the cam regulator timing is off, it sends variable voltage spikes through the rubber seal circuit. As you know, your windows are in contact with rubber door seals. The voltage spikes which can be in excess of 50K volts travel through the rubber gaskets, through the window glass, then into the electrical circuit. In this case, it looks like your power window switch got defribilated by the voltage spike.

The first place to check is the muffler bearing. Had you upgraded to the chrome muffler bearing this wouldn't have happened. Good luck! :D
 
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mjguflaw

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Thanks all. Got the autozone one for $11. Works great. Unfortunately, as someone quite wisely pointed out, the lack of cap for several days triggered the check engine light. Also in a miraculous and unexplainable turn of events, the driver side power window also stopped working. Anyone care to elaborate on the quantum entanglement between the gas cap and power window mechanism? Heh....

Uh yeah,,,that's easily explainable. The lack of the gas cap in and of itself would not necessarily adversely affect the operation of the power windows. However, in your case, since you turned the engine on and drove the car, you triggered the improper fluctuation of the muffler bearing. The proper synchronization of the muffler bearing with the alternator pump is crucial to the cam regulator timing. When the cam regulator timing is off, it sends variable voltage spikes through the rubber seal circuit. As you know, your windows are in contact with rubber door seals. The voltage spikes which can be in excess of 50K volts travel through the rubber gaskets, through the window glass, then into the electrical circuit. In this case, it looks like your power window switch got defribilated by the voltage spike.

The first place to check is the muffler bearing. Had you upgraded to the chrome muffler bearing this wouldn't have happened. Good luck! :D

Interesting.... I thought it may have been that I wasn't generating 1.21 gigiwatts in my flux capacitator....I'm calling Jon B for a new "Type R" muffler bearing immediately. :headbang:
 

VPRVENM97

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Interesting.... I thought it may have been that I wasn't generating 1.21 gigiwatts in my flux capacitator....I'm calling Jon B for a new "Type R" muffler bearing immediately. :headbang:

Your decision to go with the "Type R" muffler bearing demonstrates the fact that you know what you're talking about. It's a little known fact that the "Type R" unit will increase your Qtr mile trap speed by 35 mph in 90 degree weather / 90% humidity. Using "Type R" will increase the risk of you getting kicked off the track for having no cage so you'll have to sandbag. BTW, did you know that running the "Type R" will mean that you will only have to generate 1.193 gigiwatts in your flux capacitor. This means that it will run cooler and ultimately generate more RWHP!

You should probably go to an accredited driving school to handle all this extra power. Oh and don't forget, when you order the bearing, make sure you specify the year...cuz THE YEAR MATTERS!!! :D

PS:post dyno slips!
 

Midgetfist

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Interesting.... I thought it may have been that I wasn't generating 1.21 gigiwatts in my flux capacitator....I'm calling Jon B for a new "Type R" muffler bearing immediately. :headbang:

Your decision to go with the "Type R" muffler bearing demonstrates the fact that you know what you're talking about. It's a little known fact that the "Type R" unit will increase your Qtr mile trap speed by 35 mph in 90 degree weather / 90% humidity. Using "Type R" will increase the risk of you getting kicked off the track for having no cage so you'll have to sandbag. BTW, did you know that running the "Type R" will mean that you will only have to generate 1.193 gigiwatts in your flux capacitor. This means that it will run cooler and ultimately generate more RWHP!

You should probably go to an accredited driving school to handle all this extra power. Oh and don't forget, when you order the bearing, make sure you specify the year...cuz THE YEAR MATTERS!!! :D

PS:post dyno slips!


To ensure appropriate preload on the "Type R" muffler bearing, it is imperative that a left-handed, metric crescent wrench is utilized during installation.
 

ceieio

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Isn't the Type R a chrome-reverse muffler bearing? I think you need the left handed flange expander to install it in an otherwise stock installation. Not a do-it-yourself project for the novice to be sure, but should be OK with a reasonable amount of skill and experience.

For quick access to the type R bering in it's original packaging, use the blue wrench (sometimes called an Oklahoma speed wrench) to past the packaging to gain easy access from above. Make sure you properly discard the packaging when finished.
 

MannyG

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I'm sorry gents. The guys are spoofing you :eek: . Type R muffler bearings do not exists. The problem with the windows lies with your original gut feel. It is caused by the dual casuality of nature that was started during the post big-bang inflationary expansion period in the universe (1.6 pico-seconds after the event). So your quantum entanglement suggestion is right on the money. In an alternate path universe you actually put the cap back on the car and drove away. This was followed by your alternate self driving over a quantum field fluctuation (developed when you bought a non original gas cap) that disabled the windows. All you have to do to de-tangle this quantum effect is to throw the new gas cap you bought away, search for the original gas cap, and replace it. This will restore balance to the Quantum gravity field. :D

Mannyg
 
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