gremlins in the motor - help me find a bad ground (or make it better)

[Joseph Dell]

So my stereo has started making a "whine" sound that happens to be in sync with the tach... i'm pretty sure there is a bad ground somewhere.

What is the best place to ground "stuff" on the viper? I had been grounding it all to the post behind the driver's side front wheel but i've been told this isn't an ideal place.

i've got a _lot_ of electrical crap that is probably causing this (and my electric boost gauge to reset itself sometimes for no reason).

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

JD

 

[Mark Red GTS Cooper]

Joseph,

Try taking one item out of the loop at a time, if it does not change, then move onto the next one. When you undo the connections, make sure it was secure in the first place.

Try ITIL

Mark

 

[hemibeep]

a couple of things to check.
--if my memory is correct the block ground is by alternator and goes to ground on the frame on passenger side, near the hinge mount.
--there are ground locations on top of frame rail right near headlights, both sides, tight fit, but worth a check.
--I always start at the battery, wire brush the ground connection there and apply a battery terminal corrosion lube/spray.
--don't know it this makes sense, but I would move the ground for stereo away from ground for ignition/electronics in case of feedback? ? ?

 

[Joseph Dell]

Thanks for the tips! I'm going to try to do some isolation tonight. as it appears right now, the "problem" is my secondary fuel pump. it didn't used to do this before, but it does it now. And when the fuse on it is pulled, the problem goes away.

So here is the question... how the $#!@ do I fix it???

JD

 

[Mr Hemi Head]

Thanks for the tips! I'm going to try to do some isolation tonight. as it appears right now, the "problem" is my secondary fuel pump. it didn't used to do this before, but it does it now. And when the fuse on it is pulled, the problem goes away.

So here is the question... how the $#!@ do I fix it???

JD

JD If the fuel pump electrical connections are not at fault try noise supression components installed at the noise source. Pulse noise requires an automotive feed-through capacitor, whine can be managed with RF Chokes that clamp on the motor power leads(install on both + and-). The parts are not expensive so do both. Google will
help locate these. Rick