GTS fuel pump removal question

[big-n-italian]

i need to remove my fuel pump to do an upgrade.

i have drilled out the (4) pop rivets, and have removed the cover. i have removed all but one of the pieces attached to the canister top. that piece i can not figure out how to remove and am trying not to break it. this hose is black in color, about one-inch in dia, and is an accordian-type hose.

1. how does this piece come out?

2. after all (4) of the connections are disconnected, how does the pump come out? does it unscrew? my manual says i need a special tool to remove the pump. is this true?

thanks
big

 

[Doug Supercharged Vipers]

You need to use a small tip screwdriver of some sort or a small tool to work around the mating edge of the corrugated hose. Apply a small amount of oil around the underside (where the hose slides over the barb) and work it diligently.

The tool the service manual is referring to is a spanner wrench. Although, you can improvise using a small block of wood and a hammer to unscrew the nut - it's not a 'textbook' way of doing it but it is effective.

Hope this helps!
Doug

 

[carl B]

Carl

 

[plumcrazy]

great pics carl...thanx

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Like doug said....be gentle and have patience while doing it. It's easy to rip if you pry too much.

 

[big-n-italian]

thanks guys! i will work on that project tomorrow.

last question: those were some pretty large pop rivets i had to drill out. what do you guys use to secure the cover back on?

 

[IEATVETS]

last question: those were some pretty large pop rivets i had to drill out. what do you guys use to secure the cover back on?

I would tell you to use duct tape John but being the gentleman that I am, I will let somebody else tell you to use it.

 

[big-n-italian]

last question: those were some pretty large pop rivets i had to drill out. what do you guys use to secure the cover back on?

I would tell you to use duct tape John but being the gentleman that I am, I will let somebody else tell you to use it.

i already tried duck tape and corvette roof glue Duane, but neither one is sticking. this is why i am asking about the rivets.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Use the corvette roof glue to secure the duct tape down

 

[big-n-italian]

Use the corvette roof glue to secure the duct tape down

actually chad, i thought i made better sense to apply the corvette glue first, then the duck tape over the glue, since the curent duck tape formula is stronger and more reliable.

still didnt work.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

have you tried chewing some bubblegum and then using the bubblegum to hold the cover on?

 

[IEATVETS]

I'll bet this is the time you ask for help from any of us huh John? To funny.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

just use black rtv glue. It will also help seal out any gas fumes if present from the cockpit.

 

[big-n-italian]

ok, i finally got the bugger out. thanks for the advice everyone.

who does the upgrade? who do i send this to for twin Walboro modification?

 

[KingSnake97]

Check with Jason at RSI he can help you with that. He will be working on mine by next week.

 

[big-n-italian]

thanks for all your help again everyone. i just got the pump back and wanted to show you in case anyone wanted to see it before it goes in the car. thanks to performance motorsports in Austin TX for doing the upgrade.

the original pump was removed, and new twin walboros were added, along with alot of new fittings that you may be able to see.

the little white "feet" are new filters.

the two silver canisters are the new fuel pumps.

 

[Jack B]

Big-N-Italian:

that is very nice, who is Performance Motor Sports. Do you have a phone number, can you share the cost?

Please let us know how it works out for you, that is definitely an interesting set-up.

 

[big-n-italian]

hi jack

i had a few recommendations from forum members, addressing who could do the upgrade. i called around and had price quotes all over the board. i think the most expensive quote i got was a little over $800. PM charged me a little over $600. their website is here: http://www.performance-motorsports.com.

everything on top of the canister plugged right back in, and the blue fitting (that is barely visible) with white tape on top of it, is a #8 for my new fuel line.

i will surely keep you posted. joe donovan picks my car up on sunday. a larger main feed fuel line needs ran from the pump to the motor, a few small projects need done, then on to the dyno hopefully by wed the 12th or so.

 

[Vic]

After you get your new fuel pump assy in, you might also use hot melt glue to hold the access panel back in. Use the high temperature kind, because the low temp stuff is crappy. Takes about 8 sticks to fill in the depression all around the access panel.

(I was too lazy to go to Home Depot for some RTV silicone, so just used what I had around)

To get to the access panel, I just grabbed the carpet from the back, and pulled rearward until the access panel was exposed. (does that sound ****?) To get it back in place, you need to tuck the carpet back under the interior body trim pieces. If you don't have carpet tools, you can use a hole saw, (no pilot bit) holding it in the palm of your hand. The teeth dig in to the carpet fibers, and enable you to shift the carpet around, and it helps you to shove it back under the trim pieces. It doesn't damage the carpet at all, in fact, it is a similiar concept to the tool professional carpet layers use to install new carpeting. My carpet fits perfectly now, with no damage, and no ripples.

I took all those interior trim pieces out once, when I did my 5 point belts, and I didn't wanna do it again! Some of the trim screws recesses were stripped out, even coming from the factory. Better not to disturb them.

 

[big-n-italian]

vic, did you reglue the carpet back down or just tuck it under the trim? i just dont want it to look "wavy" when it is all complete.

 

[Vic]

Big-n-Italian,

I didn't glue the carpet down. If it was glued down before, I didn't even feel it when pulling it out.

The carpet looks the same now, as it did before I pulled it back.

As long as it is sitting flat, and not hung up on the edge of the trim, it will just go back to its original shape. It just "wants" to be that way! Take the obstructions to laying flat out of the way, and it just goes back the way it was. Well, that was my experience.

*edit* I'm afraid I might not be advising you the best way. I am not fanatical about my Viper, (I just like it a whole lot!), and small irregularities don't bother me. If the carpet had a 1/8" ripple, I'd call it good. If it had a 3/16" ripple, I might be inclined to glue it down. But I'm not that picky about it, and if you are into making things look absolutely pristine, you better not listen to me! Maybe Chad from Snake Hydes could better advise you. Or Venzanno interiors.