My coolant overflow looks empty?

gen2lover

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I have to get a flashlight to look tomorrow. What coolant is best and what is the mixture? distilled water and coolant? What percentages? I could not find Dave's older post on coolant overflow. Any tools I will need? How long just to add new coolant? thanks, Kevin.
 

Vman455

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Check the level when the engine is warm--it should be between the high and low marks. What coolant you add depends on what is in there already--if it's green, add green; red or orange, add extended-life antifreeze. Pull off the uppermost hose next to the pressure cap on the passenger's side, insert the end of a small funnel in the hose and add a 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix.
 

dave6666

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My post is in the Illustrated Upgrades section. How old is the coolant in your car? And unless you have an actual leak somewhere, what you have likely lost is the water component, not the glycol. The coolant overflow container is vented and the water can evaporate from this vent. The glycol will be left behind. This phenomena is called distillation, although most of the time you're not running a process like that behind the front bumper of your Viper. But is it happening. Point is, your coolant concentrates with the water loss so all you need to add is water. Over time, with the water being sucked in and coolant being expelled back, the overflow bottle will become mixed again.

But if your coolant is old as Moses, I would do nothing less than a full system drain including the block drains, and start fresh. I'd guess by the fact you don't check your overflow that often that your coolant is old as....
 
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gen2lover

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I just read some posts about guys putting ONLY water in the overflow with a turkey baster or plastic push/squeeze water bottle (bottled water).

Is this ok? or I need to do the mix? with the coolant?

Also Tom said stay away from any GREEN COOLANTS?

Is the OEM one green? red? or?
 

Vman455

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OEM is green. If you want to switch to extended life you'll have to drain and flush the cooling system.

Say, why are you listed as an enthusiast now? Did I miss something?
 
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gen2lover

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Just have to renew my VCA membership end of month. My last cash handy went to my (now passed on) sick cat Little:(

Will it be ok to just stay with the OEM GREEN? I just had it changed and flushed and burped etc.. last fall.

I just need to add to the coolant overflow bottle.
 

jdeft1

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If it was just flushed and burped 6-7 months ago... Yes, just add 50/50 mix of distilled water and green (they probably didn't fill it right)... or go buy a bottle of 50/50 pre mixed green. Keep an eye on it over the summer to see that it doesn't disappear. A little loss is to be expected but not over the winter and not in a few months of easy driving!
 

bluesrt

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extended life coolant is a bunch of bs ---- bs----bs---bs-- crap!another big boy suit idea..stupid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Sweet Ride

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extended life coolant is a bunch of bs ---- bs----bs---bs-- crap!another big boy suit idea..stupid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd have to disagree with you on that based predominantly on what I have seen in my fleet. We are getting about 2 years longer coolant life with ELC vs traditional coolant. ELC doesn't break down nearly as fast. I wouldn't say it "cools" any better, but it does last significantly longer. Also, the chemical properties of ELC vs. Standard Green coolant (generally) allow for better corrosion resistance. I'll leave the technical details to the Fuel & Lubes GOR...

ELC is highly recommended for aluminum engines/heads.
 

bluesrt

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I'd have to disagree with you on that based predominantly on what I have seen in my fleet. We are getting about 2 years longer coolant life with ELC vs traditional coolant. ELC doesn't break down nearly as fast. I wouldn't say it "cools" any better, but it does last significantly longer. Also, the chemical properties of ELC vs. Standard Green coolant (generally) allow for better corrosion resistance. I'll leave the technical details to the Fuel & Lubes GOR...

ELC is highly recommended for aluminum engines/heads.

extended life coolant will breakdown quicker than green if the coolant system has a leak in it,like intake gaskets for one,as the engine cools down after shutdown,air draws in the system and guess what from there,nasty brown and curdy jelly in your system,see it all day long,check out a system that is dry and sqeeky clean,coolant will look clean.the long life coolant is b/s,they just pull the placebo effect on the public.elc highly recommended for aluminum-horespucky,been runnin green in a 91 zr-1 since 93-clean as day one,drain and re-fill every 2 years..of coarse my cooling system is tight also..
 
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gen2lover

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guys I got to check my overflow- it is bone dry. My fan goes on all the time but my temp gauge is ALWAYS FINE- between 190-195, sometimes 200 at most. The main reservior is good/full. No leaks anywhere. I thought some of the coolant goes in the overflow if it is low or empty? I know you FILL THE OVERFLOW from the seperate black hose but why would my overflow be empty but the main full and good temps? Fan comes on all the time too. weird?

I got Prestone 50/50. It is yellow.

thanks, Kevin.
 
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Tom F&L GoR

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extended life coolant will breakdown quicker than green if the coolant system has a leak in it,like intake gaskets for one,as the engine cools down after shutdown,air draws in the system and guess what from there,nasty brown and curdy jelly in your system,see it all day long,check out a system that is dry and sqeeky clean,coolant will look clean.the long life coolant is b/s,they just pull the placebo effect on the public.elc highly recommended for aluminum-horespucky,been runnin green in a 91 zr-1 since 93-clean as day one,drain and re-fill every 2 years..of coarse my cooling system is tight also..

BZZZZT!
Where do you see it all day long? The brown stuff story was a GM factory fill problem.
What do you see with green coolant and leaking intake gaskets? Or do they only put leaking gaskets in engines using extended life coolants?
What happens when you don't change green every two years ?! Try this experiment- put new green coolant in a coffee ***, heat it up and watch the flakes form. This is what you are pumping around.

Taxi fleet testing proved that water pump failures during the warranty period went to essentially zero with ELC because the additive system isn't abrasive like green coolant is.
Heavy duty fleets love extended life coolants.
Why do you think it is a placebo? Car companies have been relying on many forms of extended life coolants for years - you think they are going to risk failures?
ELC is better for heat transfer. The green coolant puts down a layer of additive on every metal component it touches so it is essentially used up after a few days. Then you rely on the stuff sticking there. The reason you have to replace it every two years is because it flakes off, leaving the metal unprotected. ELC additive stays in solution until corrosion is imminent and then passivates the site. The majority of metal stays clean without a heat transfer barrier.
 

bluesrt

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BZZZZT!
Where do you see it all day long? The brown stuff story was a GM factory fill problem.
What do you see with green coolant and leaking intake gaskets? Or do they only put leaking gaskets in engines using extended life coolants?
What happens when you don't change green every two years ?! Try this experiment- put new green coolant in a coffee ***, heat it up and watch the flakes form. This is what you are pumping around.

Taxi fleet testing proved that water pump failures during the warranty period went to essentially zero with ELC because the additive system isn't abrasive like green coolant is.
Heavy duty fleets love extended life coolants.
Why do you think it is a placebo? Car companies have been relying on many forms of extended life coolants for years - you think they are going to risk failures?
ELC is better for heat transfer. The green coolant puts down a layer of additive on every metal component it touches so it is essentially used up after a few days. Then you rely on the stuff sticking there. The reason you have to replace it every two years is because it flakes off, leaving the metal unprotected. ELC additive stays in solution until corrosion is imminent and then passivates the site. The majority of metal stays clean without a heat transfer barrier.

all your big tech talk sounds great,brown gunk has been around since the engine has,its a common fact from exsperience,and that my friend no one can argue.:smirk:
 

bluesrt

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BZZZZT!
Where do you see it all day long? The brown stuff story was a GM factory fill problem.
What do you see with green coolant and leaking intake gaskets? Or do they only put leaking gaskets in engines using extended life coolants?
What happens when you don't change green every two years ?! Try this experiment- put new green coolant in a coffee ***, heat it up and watch the flakes form. This is what you are pumping around.

Taxi fleet testing proved that water pump failures during the warranty period went to essentially zero with ELC because the additive system isn't abrasive like green coolant is.
Heavy duty fleets love extended life coolants.
Why do you think it is a placebo? Car companies have been relying on many forms of extended life coolants for years - you think they are going to risk failures?
ELC is better for heat transfer. The green coolant puts down a layer of additive on every metal component it touches so it is essentially used up after a few days. Then you rely on the stuff sticking there. The reason you have to replace it every two years is because it flakes off, leaving the metal unprotected. ELC additive stays in solution until corrosion is imminent and then passivates the site. The majority of metal stays clean without a heat transfer barrier.

and one more topic,factory fill problem?what bs story did you buy,the brown curdy nightmare is from leaky intake gaskets and other stuff,poor design of gaskets and people heating thier motors up too quickly when cold,breaking the seal of the gaskets,then whats next,a slow death of the cooling system.period!end of disscu:)sion!!!!!
 

Sweet Ride

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all your big tech talk sounds great,brown gunk has been around since the engine has,its a common fact from exsperience,and that my friend no one can argue.:smirk:

I'll argue that one. :cool: I have not experienced this brown gunk phenomenon that you speak of in any vehicle that I have run red coolant in. Our experiences may be different due to any variety of factors.

and one more topic,factory fill problem?what bs story did you buy,the brown curdy nightmare is from leaky intake gaskets and other stuff,poor design of gaskets and people heating thier motors up too quickly when cold,breaking the seal of the gaskets,then whats next,a slow death of the cooling system.period!end of disscu:)sion!!!!!

Lets do a test. I'll switch my entire fleet back over to green coolant. For every cylinder that shows cavitation and every water pump that prematurely fails, you can send me a check for the replacement. :D

To each his own though. I'll stick with red. You can stick with green. :2tu:
 

bluesrt

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its all good..:)not try to be a mr.know it all- the whole moral of my story is- get a seep in any cooling system red or green,ure gonna get filth-plain and simple,along with that,jell with red,just makeing the statement that elc is so blown out of porportion cause of big biz merchandising.as far as aluminum protectant,use disdilled water and drain and fill every 2 years,just as good as anything..but just my belief from what i have delt with.
 

HorusRa

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Guys,

I've got a GTS 2000, GEN2, and I am woundering how to check the overflow white plastic tank?

It is located under the passenger headlight but how the hell do you get to see it? Do I have to remove some body parts or what?

I can hardly see a white tank in there with a flashlight! No way I can tell if there is fluid or min max lines!

I suspect I need to add coolant but I need to control it visually.

Thanks
 

RoadiJeff

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There should be a little rectangular inspection window in the wheel well. You may have to turn the wheels slightly to see it.
 

Vman455

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There is a slit in the wheel well, maybe ~6 inches to the left of the foglight opening. Shine a flashlight behind it (from inside the access hole) and you should be able to see the fluid level. Also, it's easier to see if you turn your wheels to the left.
 

viperdude118

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Guys,

I've got a GTS 2000, GEN2, and I am woundering how to check the overflow white plastic tank?

It is located under the passenger headlight but how the hell do you get to see it? Do I have to remove some body parts or what?

I can hardly see a white tank in there with a flashlight! No way I can tell if there is fluid or min max lines!

I suspect I need to add coolant but I need to control it visually.

Thanks

Turn the wheels all the way to the right and park on a level surface. Remove the black rubber cap in the wheel well behind the passenger fog light. stick a flashlight through the hole in there and hold it up against the plastic overflow bottle. The shadow casted on the bottle will let you see the fluid level. It is easier to see at night or with the lights off.
 
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Tom F&L GoR

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and one more topic,factory fill problem?what bs story did you buy,the brown curdy nightmare is from leaky intake gaskets and other stuff,poor design of gaskets and people heating thier motors up too quickly when cold,breaking the seal of the gaskets,then whats next,a slow death of the cooling system.period!end of disscu:)sion!!!!!

You're changing your story - now it's all coolants? Not ELC coolants break down quicker?

The GM brown gunk was their small SUV where the radiator did not have a cap, only a remote reservoir. People could not tell that GM underfilled the coolant from the factory until it overheated or the oxidation products plugged the system. Had nothing to do with ELC, in fact, GM still uses it. I was there at Texaco when it happened.

It is better because most people aren't as religious as you in changing coolant every two years. Even if they did, they would be liable for the water pump seal degradation that occurs with the green high silicate coolant and is virtually eliminated with the silicate free (DEX-COOL) coolant.

Sorry, this hits a "hot" button (pun.) ELC coolants are so much better than green... for many reasons. It is worth it to me to tell the good side and argue with your comments.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Tom- Any Opinions On My Strange "problem" (might Not Be)?

Now that you are paying attention, I would say add to the overflow and really monitor it. The radiator cap should be replaced just to eliminate it as an issue. Get a spring-center type (the center metal disc is spring loaded to the rubber seal) and not the drop center type (the metal disc can dangle.) If any of the rubber dries, gets hard, or gets crusty it will leak air in rather than **** the overflow back in. After a few hot-cold cycles you should be able to judge more about what is going on.
 
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