I have an '04 as well, totally stock engine/Paxton kit with Mopar cat-back exhaust plus ATI damper and DLM intercooler. I had mine tuned with the split-sec box and picked up ~70 RWHP, it did 640 with the stock tune, 710 after the final tune was in. My tuner said they could have gotten more out of it, but I agreed I'd rather have it on the safe side, they pulled 2 deg. of timing out before the final run at 710 to the wheels. It was a while ago, but if I remember correctly they had to hook up the "violet" wire out of the split sec. box (which is normally not used with a stock Paxton install) to tap into the stock system which controls fuel delivery. Plugged a laptop into the port on the split-sec box and began tuning from there. Took about 3 hours but well worth it.
Paxton SC Air/Fuel dyno help
- Thread starter slither
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NoRice
Viper Owner
4th gear is 1:1 and the gear you should be dynoing in.
03gobluecobra
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No matter what car, when you are dealing with serious power, I NEVER skimp on tuning. If it were me, I'd go for the AEM, just as I know that it would protect your engine (potentially saving you thousands in repairs). I'm not totally sure how the split sec box works, but it sounds like it can do a good job of tuning as well.
Dave T (BADVENM)
Enthusiast
I did the reflash from DC performance on my supercharged SRT Ram. Although not as noticable on the Viper there is something called "wide open throttle timer delay". Before the flash I had little power til boost...after the flash Dans program removed the delay and I gained a full second in the quarter mile. Given the Vipers weight vs the Ram its not as noticable. I def noticed the flash in the seat of the pants and it showed at the track. My tuning was done with the split second. You can also get the flash on another PCM so you can have your stocker and the modified one with the flash.
Hi Dave. I have been reading the posts about "the fash". What exactly is "the flash"? Is it tuning within the stock ECM? I thought the code was not open for this procedure. How is it being done? Is anyone doing it on the east coast? For instance, does Jason Heffner do it?
Dave T (BADVENM)
Enthusiast
Basically Dan starts with a new PCM and reprograms it (flashes it) with various modifications. You have to give him your VIN so it will work. You could do it with your original PCM but I wanted to keep that one stock in case I sell the truck. I dont know how he does it or any specs there of. I do know it works once I took the truck back to the track, atmospheric conditions including density alt being similar. Hopefully Dan will chime in. I dont know of anyone else that does it for the Viper.
Dave T (BADVENM)
Enthusiast
the flash controls the ecm/pcm
the split second box controls the Paxton and where the tuner does his work adjusting things such as timing, leaning it out or richening it up, etc. So yes, you need both.
If you send Dan at DC your dyno graph and mods on your vehicle he can tweak your stock ecm/pcm with a flash. If you prefer to keep your original one stock you can purchase another one from him with the custom flash, then simply unplug and remove the old one (3 screws on the SRT Ram one) and plug in the new one.
Call dan, he can explain everything better then I probably. 310-841-6996.
the split second box controls the Paxton and where the tuner does his work adjusting things such as timing, leaning it out or richening it up, etc. So yes, you need both.
If you send Dan at DC your dyno graph and mods on your vehicle he can tweak your stock ecm/pcm with a flash. If you prefer to keep your original one stock you can purchase another one from him with the custom flash, then simply unplug and remove the old one (3 screws on the SRT Ram one) and plug in the new one.
Call dan, he can explain everything better then I probably. 310-841-6996.
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Hey Snkeyez,
Based on your post, not sure where you live but you should get your car into a tuner before you go much further.
Also, I'd go back to the stock plugs.
Dan
Based on your post, not sure where you live but you should get your car into a tuner before you go much further.
Also, I'd go back to the stock plugs.
Dan
The purple wire goes between the map and the computer. You need to be careful because now you have control over your timing/fuel injectors...in the paxton form, the split sec just pulls timing and uses the 12 volt outs if I remember correctly to run your secondary pumps. Pressure is built up mechanically and forces more fuel through the injectors. With the purple wire installed you can now modify the fuel delivery on a set table which I think was table "a" and table "b" represented the timing, but again...this is how you can blow your engine if you don't know what you are doing.
Jim Wilson
Enthusiast
If you want to learn more about the tuning process with the split-sec there is a good writeup on http://www.splitsec.com/ click on "Tuning Guide".
Snkeyez,
Ab is correct, the violet wire running from the slit second box was connected to a wire located in the large wire bundle which runs in the front of the drivers side valve cover, when hooked up it gives the split second box the ability to control the fuel injectors and timing. On a stock Paxton install the split second box only pulls timing out and turns on the auxiliary fuel pumps with the 12V out as it senses pressure in the intake manifold. They did use the split second software to tune it, unfortunatley I don't have a copy of the tune that's in the car. Of course once you have the ability to control the fuel and spark you also have the ability to damage the engine, too much timing/not enough fuel under boost is not a good combination, so make sure your tuner is experienced. When mine was done, they started off slow, running it to 2000 rpm, checking the A/F, adjusting fuel/spark, run it to 2500 rpm, check A/F, adjust fuel/spark, run it to 3000 rpm, etc finally ending up with full pulls up to 6K.
The DLM intercooler replaces the pretty small cooler (its really an oil cooler that comes with the Paxton kit) that mounts up in front of the car behind the front valence. The DLM cooler is about 3 times the size of the stock cooler and if I remember correctly just about quadruples the water capacity of the system - all of which of course helps keep the pressurized air entering the intake manifold as cool as possible.
I'm running stock Champion plugs with .032" gap, I did put in new plugs when I installed the blower kit. With 7-8 pounds of boost, I really don't see the need to go to a colder plug, but I'm sure there are differing opinions on this. I've never been a big believer in all of the "fancy" plug designs/materials, as long as the ignition system and spark plug heat range are up to par with what you are trying to accomplish with the engine (boost/nitrous/high compression) I don't think triple platinum plugs with eight electrodes are going to be a great benefit.
Ab is correct, the violet wire running from the slit second box was connected to a wire located in the large wire bundle which runs in the front of the drivers side valve cover, when hooked up it gives the split second box the ability to control the fuel injectors and timing. On a stock Paxton install the split second box only pulls timing out and turns on the auxiliary fuel pumps with the 12V out as it senses pressure in the intake manifold. They did use the split second software to tune it, unfortunatley I don't have a copy of the tune that's in the car. Of course once you have the ability to control the fuel and spark you also have the ability to damage the engine, too much timing/not enough fuel under boost is not a good combination, so make sure your tuner is experienced. When mine was done, they started off slow, running it to 2000 rpm, checking the A/F, adjusting fuel/spark, run it to 2500 rpm, check A/F, adjust fuel/spark, run it to 3000 rpm, etc finally ending up with full pulls up to 6K.
The DLM intercooler replaces the pretty small cooler (its really an oil cooler that comes with the Paxton kit) that mounts up in front of the car behind the front valence. The DLM cooler is about 3 times the size of the stock cooler and if I remember correctly just about quadruples the water capacity of the system - all of which of course helps keep the pressurized air entering the intake manifold as cool as possible.
I'm running stock Champion plugs with .032" gap, I did put in new plugs when I installed the blower kit. With 7-8 pounds of boost, I really don't see the need to go to a colder plug, but I'm sure there are differing opinions on this. I've never been a big believer in all of the "fancy" plug designs/materials, as long as the ignition system and spark plug heat range are up to par with what you are trying to accomplish with the engine (boost/nitrous/high compression) I don't think triple platinum plugs with eight electrodes are going to be a great benefit.
Tom, No problem and I would gladly try to help you out, however the tuner I used (Velociti) outside of Dallas went out of business a few months after I had it tuned which was about this time last year. I think they opened up under a new name but I can't remember what the name of the new shop is or if they are still open. I did a search on the internet but their old site won't come up. If anyone knows what they changed shop names to I could call them up and ask, not sure how it would turn out but would be worth a shot.
slither, you can get the program from the split second by connecting a laptop. All you need is a program to run the split second software. I have it if you need a copy (I think it is called R4). You then copy the file from the split second without changing anything. Seems like that would be a heck of a good start for any of us that would like to add the fuel system control to our split seconds.
Good way to make friends among your Paxton pals
Good way to make friends among your Paxton pals
