Cutting hood to install louvers
The fun has really started, marked hood, time to drill:
Time to cut:
By the way, if you look at the the picture above, you can see the roll-up window doors and the windshield surround are now installed. We put the hardtop on were very pleased that it fit nicely. This is a '94, being upgraded to Gen II doors, it is taking a LOT of parts: doors, electrical harnesses, hard top, soft top, windshield surround, windshield rubber trim, door rubber trim, sport bar pad, seat belts, window switches... the list seems endless. Ed will not be doing the wiring to make it all work, I get that task when the car comes home after paint..... The reason I went for the roll-up windows was the fact I needed to get a windshield surround and one door anyway. So I sold the good door, and bought the roll up window doors and the correct windshield surround to go with them.
Louvers in (note stripes are marked and louvers will be inside stripes and same color as stripes (black)):
The plan is to also cut the hole out below the drivers side "speaker grill" for additional release of underhood heat.
Here is a picture with the hardtop on the car, the rear decklid is in the foreground:
The glass is the same as a side curtain car, but the windshield surround has a different profile to allow for the mounting bracket that holds the weatherstrip which mates with the roll up window glass. It appears the mounting pins on the top are a different design too, but I'd have to get a gen I and Gen II top side by side to see the exact differences.
The sportpad is different (bigger holes) as the hardtop changed so the sportpad (and rear top mounting studs) did not need to be removed to install the top like it did on Gen I hardtops. The Gen II sportpad bolts right up on the Gen I sportcap.
Rear fender getting prepped for racing style fuel filler lid:
Now for the funny one. We needed a way to mock-up the side pipes, so what better than 3" and 4" PVC pipe, it worked great. It was easy to cut to length, and we tweeked it until we were happy. The real thing is now on order from
Heart Throb Exhaust
They are quite a shop and can make about anything in any size. For the 4" OD, 3" pass-thru, 33 1/2" long side pipe (custom length), a 2 1/2" to 3 " stepped infeed pipe, and a 3" turnout all welded together, it was $175 for each side. Very reasonable considering the custom length. The entire setup is 53 1/2" long. It would have been half that if I would have been happy with a 30" muffler. Of course it is aluminized steel, not stainless steel, but I'll be ceramic coating them.
I asked how long the pipes would last, he said a long-long time, on average folks seem to get 20 years out of them. Good enough for me. They also can make a set out of stainless, but I figured I'd start out with these. I did try to get these from folks like Borla and Monroe, but none of them would do anything longer than their stock lengths.
Somebody asked me, "What happened to the car in the first place?" Well, the fellow I bought it from said he slid off the road into some grass..... slid for a good bit, thought he was going to be in good shape, and then at the last second, the wheels dug in and it went over. The only frame damage found was the drivers side rear rail, behind the suspension mounting points and the cowl the windshield mounts to. I knew about the rear rail when I bought the car, it was fixed many-many moons ago, all the rest of the frame checked out perfect.
When Ed recently went to put on the windshield frame, the bolt holes did not line up.... he looked a little closer and found the cowl had been tweaked in the accident. Ed got out his come-along, tied one end to a steel column of his building, the other to the passenger side of the cowl and pulled like mad (wish he had taken pictures of this Rube Goldberg frame puller). He called me tickled to all get out with the results after everything settled in for a day. "Perfect". It even pulled out the small wrinkle he had found on the drivers side area of the cowl in front of the door. The windshield frame lined up perfect, and when we checked the frame to the sportbar top mounting points, all was square. For good measure, the hardtop dropped right on.
With mounting experience on repairing a damaged Viper I can say with some knowledge, when smacked.... LOTS of stuff cracks that you would not notice until the car is all the way apart. When I first saw the car, all I could see was the damage to the hood, drivers side door, sill cover, the sportcap, and the rear trunk tub. We have found additional fiberglass damage to the inner wheel hubs, the fan inlet box, the deck lid, one hinge cover.