Replacing spark plugs tomorrow, anything I need to know?

KDR83

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I am replacing Champion RC12ECC spark plugs which sadly are almost brand new with NGK 4291 since my car has a paxton supercharger. I am told to gap the plug down to .032 correct? Also are any of the plugs hard to get to, do I need any special tools? I just have a standard ratchet set.

Thanks
 

Sonoman

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I'd search some of the spark plug threads here on the forum. One thing about aluminum heads-- you can strip out the spark plug holes if you go crazy tightening the plugs. I've actually witnessed someone do this to one spark plug hole on a (von-Viper) motor, and it wasn't pretty. Torque spec is only 14 ft-lbs for the spark plugs.

Also, the stainless steel plug shields take a certain knack to click in and out of place. Sometimes a twisting motion helps. I grabbed the shield with a long-nose ViseGrips locking pliers, but YMMV. Get plenty of light down there to see what is going on clearly. Working in a dim light leads to clumsy mistakes. The rear-most cylinder on each side was kind of a *****, but other than that they were not too bad to get to. Not the easiest car to change plugs on, but certainly not even close to being the worst, either. You will of course end up pulling the plug wires out of their guide looms, so remembering or photographing how they were routed from the factory is useful. They did a nice job of routing the wires around the valve covers at the factory, and each wire is built to a length which eliminates all the sag and slop you would see on older cars. Not sure I agree with their design for the coils being placed under the intake manifold, but it certainly keeps thing looking tidy.
 

cowger

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Make sure you have the right socket, I think it's 5/8", and you definitely need the one intended for plugs with the rubber insert that holds the plug while you're pulling it out or inserting the new one. Or, another trick is to take a ~1' piece of rubber hose, with the inside diameter matching the plug body. Slip the plug into the hose, use that to get the plug down into the well and started, then bring in your socket and torque wrench to finish it off. The flexibility of the hose allows you to get it into the tougher spots easily.

All-in-all, though, I found this to be a pretty easy service.
 

Nine Ball

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Pretty simple car to work on. Put a bit of anti-seize on the threads of each plug. This will make them easier to remove next time, and help reduce the potential to gall/strip the aluminum threads on the cylinder head.
 

wikkid

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The 2 plugs, on the firewall will test your patience. Go get some extensions for your socket set. And i removed the titanium shields and replaced with heat socks.
A few swear words are allowed, you'll be using them.... Overall on a scale to 10, this is a 6 in difficulty. Dont buy a cheap spark plug socket either, get one that grabs the plug.
 

2BADD-4U

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Before you pull them, use some compressed air and clean out the housing around the plugs....the anti -seeze is another good tip!


Dave

God Bless!
 
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