sill insulation

jordan01GTS

Viper Owner
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Posts
125
Reaction score
0
Location
Beecher, IL
Ok I have read earlier posts about not putting the outer insulation back in the sills. I was wondering how everyones expierence with this has been. I went catless and have corsa cat-back. I would just think the insulation would actually cause more heat on the sills, and I'm gonna keep it on the inside so it doesn't heat the interior.
 

Dom426h

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Posts
2,632
Reaction score
0
Location
DE
The factory stuff is fine, it is sculpted to the sills shape and letts air flow around the exhaust components. The metal exterior of it reflects heat away from the sills.

The prob is with the aftermarket stuff. It fills the extra space not allowing air to circulate.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 15, 2000
Posts
17,923
Reaction score
0
Location
tampa, fl USA
The insulation won't cause more heat but if you want more cooling cut a hole in the part of the fender that covers the front of the sill.
 
OP
OP
J

jordan01GTS

Viper Owner
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Posts
125
Reaction score
0
Location
Beecher, IL
So everyone recomends to keep it in there? I was planning on venting the front of the sill. Just want to keep them as cool as possible.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 15, 2000
Posts
17,923
Reaction score
0
Location
tampa, fl USA
The insulation weighs about 5.6lbs. So if you wanna drop about 22lbs you could remove both the inner and outer. Going catless and opening up the front of the sill cools the sill a lot but it will always be a little warm.
 
OP
OP
J

jordan01GTS

Viper Owner
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Posts
125
Reaction score
0
Location
Beecher, IL
If I decide to not put the outer shields on will this cause any problems? I dont ever realy drive in traffic.
 

v10enomous

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Posts
5,248
Reaction score
0
Location
NW Jersey
My GTS has some heat discoloration on the top front of the sills. Nothing terrible and it isn't getting any worse but it's noticeable up close. I am not sure what's under there (cats...no cats) and if the cause was addressed by the previous owner or not. My sill temperatures seem to vary... Sometimes hot and sometimes not so hot... I plan to have the sills resprayed and the vents installed so now I'm wondering if I should also get new insulation when I have the respray done ?

Is it expensive ? How hard is it to replace ?
 

eucharistos

Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Posts
6,845
Reaction score
2
Location
Houston
....cut a hole in the part of the fender that covers the front of the sill.

hey chuck, do you have a pic you can post of where you cut and if you covered it, with what?

i am about to do this - is water or debris entering the opening an issue at all?

i like some of the vendor's covers, but prefer to home fabricate if possible

thanks
 

plumcrazy

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 9, 2003
Posts
16,243
Reaction score
7
Location
ALL OVER
My GTS has some heat discoloration on the top front of the sills. Nothing terrible and it isn't getting any worse but it's noticeable up close. I am not sure what's under there (cats...no cats) and if the cause was addressed by the previous owner or not. My sill temperatures seem to vary... Sometimes hot and sometimes not so hot... I plan to have the sills resprayed and the vents installed so now I'm wondering if I should also get new insulation when I have the respray done ?

Is it expensive ? How hard is it to replace ?

mine are off the car as of this afternoon and being dropped off at the paint shop in the morning actually.

the sill insulation is a PIA in my opinion to get back on but needed. i wouldn't replace it though. id bet its expensive but a call into tator for new and jonB for used would confirm this.

even with no cats on a silver car, they are a good idea IMO. silver is the worst color for heat in the sills.
 

Ron

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 6, 2000
Posts
2,137
Reaction score
1
Location
Indianapolis
There is huge air opening where the pipe enters the sill just as there is a huge exit where the pipe leaves the sill. No need to cut your inner fender in my opinion. Verifying that the inner insulation isn't pressed up against the cats / pipes is more important in ensuring airflow within the sill.
 

eucharistos

Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Posts
6,845
Reaction score
2
Location
Houston
hey ron

while searching this topic earlier today, i read a one of your post from back in the day about this,

did you cut the hole and not notice much/any difference?
 

PhoenixGTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 9, 2004
Posts
2,685
Reaction score
1
Location
Phoenix Arizona
For the record, I have the exhaust in my side-sills wrapped in Cer-Wool ceramic fabric insulation (Roe does or used to sell this - I sourced it on my own). It is held on by twisted stainless wire. First, I never drive in the rain so no external moisture entrapment issues for me (given the heat of the exhaust I am not sure how water could stay in there whent he car is running anyway - it would boil away). The insulation makes a slight but noticeable difference in that the sills are cooler on your first drive - however - it is "insulation" after all so it works both ways, meaning once you stop the insulation keeps the heat of the exhaust around for a lot longer. Picture this. If you are going to go on a drive, stop nowhere, then come home it helps. But if you are going to run some errands and make multiple stops, it hurts a little.
 

v10enomous

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Posts
5,248
Reaction score
0
Location
NW Jersey
To me it seems like the back is way more wide ope than the front. People are claiming a 25 degree redustion with the front sill vents. I don't think it's the fender you cut... isn't it actually more of the wheel well ?

I was all ready to do the vents but now you have me thinking...

There is huge air opening where the pipe enters the sill just as there is a huge exit where the pipe leaves the sill. No need to cut your inner fender in my opinion. Verifying that the inner insulation isn't pressed up against the cats / pipes is more important in ensuring airflow within the sill.
 

Dom426h

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Posts
2,632
Reaction score
0
Location
DE
There is huge air opening where the pipe enters the sill just as there is a huge exit where the pipe leaves the sill. No need to cut your inner fender in my opinion. Verifying that the inner insulation isn't pressed up against the cats / pipes is more important in ensuring airflow within the sill.

+1, I agree
 

vancouver-gts

Viper Owner
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Posts
1,042
Reaction score
0
Location
Vancouver BC
There is huge air opening where the pipe enters the sill just as there is a huge exit where the pipe leaves the sill.

Ron , the only problem with the front opening is , that's were heat from the headers and the engine entering too.Fresh air has to be forced in on the front part of the sill and exit at the rear of the sill.
I may install louvred plates on the bottom of the sills two facing forward just before the cats , and two facing rear just after the cats , before the resonator.The resonator is not an issue for heat , the cat is. I've installed airscoops on the engine hatch of my boat with the scoops open in the back that reduced ambient temperatures in the engine bay to 70 degrees when running the boat at WOT. I had my sills repainted , because of the yellowing from the heat.

You must be registered for see images
 

JST2CRZY

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Posts
139
Reaction score
0
Location
Deland, FL
I am in the process of having mine painted. I decided to try por-20 1400 degree coating on the inside of the sill and then apply Thermotec 2000 degree blankets over the coating. Tator suggested that because I live in Florida with all the rain we have (car is a DD) I should not use the sill vents. I am running Belangers, Borla, and no cats. Still debating if I want to leave the exhaust bare or put something over it. Stock insulation is degraded to the point it is not worth putting back. Report to follow.
 
Top